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Blackkers 2630 - Almost Ready, Few Queries.


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I didn't have any issues with cam timing when fitting the belt. All the marks lined up but I'm not convinced timing will be 100%; that's where adjustable gears come in handy.

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I installed the 1000cc bosch injectors I bought from Kinkstahh who was kind enough to get scotty to knock up some plugs that will go straight into the factory injector loom.

I'm using the factory rail and reg as there isn't much point in going aftermarket. I gave it a lick of paint though as it was looking pretty rough. Bunnings high temp black FTW

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I'm not sure who to get to tune it. I will need a dump pipe made up and possibly a pipe from the RH guard to the plenum.

I'm tempted to either tow it somewhere like JEM where they can finish it off for me and do the run in tune. Any ideas there?

edit: not sure why the pictures came out sideways

Edited by Blackkers
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Thanks for the tip luke I'll be sure to do that.

I can't wait either!

I'm putting the intake back together currently. Cleaning the throttles and scraping gaskets has taken hours today.

remembering where all the vac and coolant hoses go is a nightmare as well!!

Be careful with those throttles as you can remove the seal and cause more leaks. The intake side is never fun when putting back together.

I've seen some good work come out of JEM and they seem to be able to do it fairly quickly which is a bonus. Maybe give them a ring if you are inclined to go to them and see what they can do for you.

Looking forwards to the results from this build.

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What's the issue? I just used degreaser on the throttles and scraped off the old baked on paper gaskets.

Should I reassemble with a bit of sealant? I was going to leave it dry but now you have me worried

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phew. yep didn't touch that. I think I will use hylomar. After assembling all this outside of the car I would hate to think what it's like diagnosing a leak once the engine is in

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I poured some Kerosene in the throttles to leave it for a while and see if they leaked. Well sure enough all of them leaked almost immediately. I don't know whether to worry about this or not.

After using some gasket remover on the plenum some of the paint started peeling. I ended up painting that too although it doesn't look much better than before!

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starting to look like an engine

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I'd say if the degreaser didn't clean it off the kerosene did, the easiest/suckiest way to find out is to put it all in and see if it idles at 1,200rpm

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Personally to minimize the risk of it all going bad, id clean them right up and reseal them or grab a set you know haven't been cleaned/messed with and fit them.

I had to clean some throttles up today for a plenum I have off a car and just used a razor blade to peel the gaskets off

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You can buy the Tomei sealant and reseal it all properly if you want to be sure. Otherwise you will find out when you have a high idle after putting the motor in the car and you'll be up for more work.

There is a guide/thread about it all on here as people think to clean them out while its off but ends up causing more drama.

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That guide was written by me, pictures are long gone (dont know what happened there) but it fixed it and its still working fine today (years later)

Dont be afraid if you do clean off the coating, its no big deal to fix, more a frustration hoping you get it right as you cant test it till its all back together again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys back again.

This week I'm going to have some AN fittings welded onto the sump before I remove the diff and have it all cleaned up.

Fittings I'm using:

2x -10 AN

1x -12 AN

The first -10 will go as a breather to the rear of the head

the second -10 will go to the bottom of the Catch can as a drain back to the sump.

The -12 will go as a breather to the top of the catch can

The head will have a -10 rear breather to sump

2x -12 push on fittings for the cam breathers connected to the catch can as well

The catch can I'm tempted to use will be the Hi Octane direct with 3x -12 breathers (1 sump, 2 cam covers). and a -10 drain (sump).

A breather will be connected to the vacuum from the turbo inlet

I know that's confusing so I drew a (also confusing) diagram:

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Does anyone see anything wrong with this? The hi octane catch can will need to be modified for the extra -12 breather if they can't do it in house (http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=1448)

Thanks

I guess I should mention I'm using 1.25mm and blank oil plugs in the block with an R34det neo oil pump that's been overhauled.

Standard sump size and RIPS pickup/awd adaptor with tomei baffles. The engine is unlikely to break 7500rpm

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Considering I already have the rear fitting tapped and installed and I have not opened up where the oil drains back down the block I'm just going to do it anyway as it's easy.

Also I have 2 - 12 breathers from the head and only one - 12 from the sump so it will help equalise pressure without interrupting oil return.

You're probably right it's not needed but I'm set up for it

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Couple of mock up glory shots.

Massive exhaust wheel (approx 62-63mm) in the tiny .63 T3 rear housing.

ATR45SAT should make a responsive 400-420rwkw. I'll probably run it around 22-24 psi. I hope a Walbro 460 and 1000cc EV14's on the stock rail/reg can keep up

I'm waiting on fittings to arrive then I can put the sump together.

Catch can should be ready next week. I might get it powdercoated in black

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  • 1 year later...

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