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I'm selling our GTR due to it just not getting driven and really is just going to waste sitting in my garage.

Engine mods - none really apart from a ARC cold air intake.

Exhaust- Apexi cat back.

Suspension- Nismo S tune

Wheels - 19" Volks te37s

Body kit- carbon rear pods and side skirts, carbon bonnet, and Blits fibre glass bonnet also (adr approved)

Stereo- Pioneer DVD player, sub, amp, speakers. Sounds good.

Condition- car presents well and is the reason I purchased it in the first place. Interior almost immaculate with only 2 minor marks near facia of stereo. Body is also immaculate and will come with a new front diffuser and lower lip. Paint is in great condition with only minor scratches in places..... Not even noticeable and expected for car this age. Engine and gearbox - can't fault them.

Car was imported 02/07/12 and I bought it in 2/13 with no documents as I took the car on face value and had a through inspection done prior to taking the car. Since then I have done a Japanese odometer check and it came up with 74900 which is what what I was told was legit ks when I bought it however I still wanted proof for future reference.

I'm pricing this GTR at $44000.00 taking into account the little extras it has and condition of the car however I Am a "little" negotiable on sale but do not low ball or offer money until you have at least spoke to me via phone and view pics or viewed the car in person. I'm happy to assist in delivery of vehicle at buyers expense. I also own my own car hoist so if you do decide to come have a look I'm more than happy to put it on the hoist for viewing.

Contact Scott 0432580041

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Edited by slo 10z
  • 2 weeks later...

Looks clean, nice price, im sure this will sell fast they always do when the dip into the $39's

Pics of the japanese odo check paper work, and some engine bay shots and better shots of the car would be nice.

If i didnt want to keep my s15 a few more years i would consider this one

  • 1 month later...

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    • Fk me, I guess next time I will try to use the onsite attachments feature. I find it hard to work with so far though because I can't move the images to where I want them to be. I will try to make a separate post with just images. As for lifting. The work I need to do for now involves the exhaust and engine mainly, so the arm covering the jacking points is not a problem. But I don't want to bend in the whole sill or underfloor by lifting the car at the original jack points. I found some rubber blocks, 125 by 125 with a 10mm wide and 10mm deep cutout, which I'm hoping will work for not hitting the jacking rail. The sidemember, as seen in the service manual, are the rectangular frame rails that come from the front of the car and go alongside the gearbox and downpipe. Those that get crushed inwards if you use them for a floorjack. They are already slightly bent in from being used to hoist by other people. I think cutting off the jacking points and welding or bolting on a reinforcement plate along the sill might not be a dumb idea. Or is it dumb?     A 2 post hoist is what I'm gonna work with, but not for any underbody work, just leaky engine and exhaust work so far. Depends on what else I find that might need immediate attention. For metalwork on the sills I think I'd just bring the car to a panel beater. What's your take on getting rid of the original jacking rails and putting reinforcement plates along the sills?
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    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
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