Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello,

I have a R33 GTST with nistune z32 conversion in it and am having problems with getting anything more then 9 AFR. I have verified my wide band is good by reconnecting the narrow and both read the same perameters. In nistune i was told a simple change in the k constant should do the trick and even had them send me a base tune for z32 maf and 740cc nismo injectors and still it runs the same. Im at a loss went to the only tuner out here and they dont want to do nistune as he has never done it before. car ran fine before the nistune and other add ons. I will add what has been done. When the car runs it gets to about 12-13AFR on load and on full boost it will go down to 9 but just sitting it runs so rich and smells strong and even a little gas comes out now my oil is saturated with alot of fuel so i will be changing that as well. I know i read that i shouldnt need a FPR so any help would be great.

R33 GTST series 1

Blits front mount

genuine Z32 AFM

Nismo 740cc injectors

Split fire coils

Apexi air filter

R34 turbo with bb and alum fins

super copper mix clutch

boost controller

hks ssqv

decat exhaust 3in

innovate wide band

greddy boost gauge

nistune z32 board

have meth injection but waiting to put in

japanese gas said to be around 98-100 oct dont know if true or not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456494-fueling-issues-with-nistune/
Share on other sites

If you are able to mess about with it yourself in the software, then I urge you to download the tuning guide from their site and read it, understand it and apply it. If the mixtures don't respond to proper manipulation (of K value and the latency) and anything else that might be appropriate after your self-education, then I suggest you take it to a specialist to find out if those nasty injectors are all working properly, etc.

We have found on two cars now that the Z32 ECU even with a Nistune board on an RB25DET that the tune just doesn't work as good as a R32 ECU with a Nistune board, the cold start and idle are heaps better, and the overall tune is too. In the bad old days you couldn't modify the R32 ECU to do VCT, but you can now.

Edited by Sub Boy32

The latency setting for your injectors will be wrong. Google to see what it should be. If you cant find it try reducing it in say 100ms increments until you get the idle in the ballpark then make smaller changes up/down to zero in. You should see a lot of change in mixture at idle and a much smaller change in mixture, possibly too small to read, at WOT.

Also, i'd be a bit concerned about the abilities of a tuner who didn't want to use Nistune.

when i first put the nistune in when i made changes i was able to see them as i went now it seems you have to change the values alot to get anything and when you do get something the engine just wants to kill it self like it wants 9 afr or nothing. I will look up the latency and try that route. The tuner out here is known i guess but i guess my wife thought the guy was no good to as first thing he said is he can do it but doesnt have the program so i told him i have it. So then he goes on to say he needs to study it so he doesnt want to do.

Sounds like your ecu is in limp mode. It can be caused by a corrupt image in the Nistune board, poor installation or most likely in your case (if it was working ok previously) the Nistune board has come loose from the socket. Make sure it's pushed in properly.

Symptoms of limp mode are you can make changes in the software but it doesn't really do anything and a massively over rich idle.

  • Like 1

We have found on two cars now that the Z32 ECU even with a Nistune board on an RB25DET that the tune just doesn't work as good as a R32 ECU with a Nistune board, the cold start and idle are heaps better, and the overall tune is too. In the bad old days you couldn't modify the R32 ECU to do VCT, but you can now.

We tune at least 5 or 6 Nistunes a week minimum and they are fantastic on cars the ecu was designed for R32, R34, S15, S13 etc.

No matter what anyone says the z32 ecu conversion is junk, so many trimming and 3 party background skews that they never EVER run perfect. R32 GTST with feature pack A/C or LED vct output is a better option.

Pfc is an even better option on a RB25.

I love nistunes and we are one of their biggest customers but the z32 ecu conversions are no good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 1000ccs are side feeds but they're not currently installed, had my old factory ones in for leak testing purposes, only decided on them because front facing plenums and good top feed rail kits are out of my budget at the moment, are they really that problematic? Had a set of yellow jackets that lasted me 5 years, no real issues, only replaced them chasing this misfire issue that ended up not being ignition related 😄  
    • Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....
    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
×
×
  • Create New...