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R33 Barn Find

ScruffyR34
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ScruffyR34 Rookie

ScruffyR34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi there,

This maybe my first post, so please help me out here.

I recently acquired a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS 4 door that HAS NOT run for 3 1/2 years.

I have drained the fuel tank, changed the fuel and air cleaner elements.

A new battery has also been installed.

It cranked up and fired into life after a little coaxing. It ran for a few minutes and then I switched it off and changed the oil and oil filter.

Now the engine will not fire up again.

Since changing the fuel filter and air filter, the fuel no longer flows!

There is NO clicking of any relays and NO noise from the pump.

I have checked under the bonnet fuse box and FUEL PUMP fuse is serviceable.

The fuse box under the dash has ALL serviceable fuses.

Problem is, it is all in JAPANESE!

The Google search did not help for the translation as the detailed page dose not match up with the Amp rating or layout of IGN, ACC or BATT.

My main questions are:

1/. The relays are quoted to be inside the boot between the tail lamps under the boot catch assy

They are not there!

Where would they be?

2/. Is there any wiring mods that I can do simply that will get the pump running?

3/. As per Q2, can I put in a HOT wire and run the pump via a relay I supply and trigger it from existing switching wire>

I would like to see this car up and running tomorrow if I can find some quick and easy to do solutions.

Many thanks in advance..

Edited by PranK
Changing 'R32' to 'R33'
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junkie Mentor

junkie

Posted
Posted

I just bought a "barn find" r34 and it had the same problem - turned out to be a dud connection on the positive battery terminal. Was cranking fine with a new battery, had all the ignition lights, just not enough current for the fuel pump

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R31 drift pig Experienced

R31 drift pig

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Posted

Is said barn red?

Seriously though, start from one end of the system and work through. Power to ecu, power to trigger wire, power to pump relays, which should be under the parcel shelf, next to the battery IIRC, power to tank lid connection etc. (I'm pretty certain i got that order right... been fighting the flu for the past 24 hours and the brain is a bit foggy)

If all is dandy, pump itself may be rooted. Sitting in stale fuel for 3+ years will clog it up with varnish pretty fast. Did you clean the tank out or just drain it? Prick of a job to do in a 33

I thought My bosch 040 had died a while ago, and after replacing the pump, it actually turned out to be the pump trigger wire burnt out from another unrelated issue.

As per Q2 and 3, you can do both, but both won't work if there's another wiring issue, or the pumps is rooted, unless you simply hardwire from the battery to the tank lid connection.

Hope that helps you in any way.

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  • 2 weeks later...
ScruffyR34 Rookie

ScruffyR34

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Posted

Hi

Still have NO POWER to pump.

Checked all fuses and swapped relays.

ZILCH

Connected 12volts direct to pump and turned key YOU BEAUTY! .....................IT RUNS!

Will now trace and find the break.

If not, should I supply 12volts from battery direct to a relay AND switch it from ignition side of fuse box??

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XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

Could be a few thing but the three most obvious to me are 1) the fuel pump control module which povides the amperage to the pump which is control with the signal from the ECU, 2) the fuel pump relay on the back wall of the truck, 3) the alarm which should be spliced into the fuel control signal from the ECU to cut that signal so the pump doesn't activate

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T-Rex Enthusiast

T-Rex

Posted
Posted

I just went through this on another car. My problem turned out to be a bad ground wire AND a faulty pump! Sometimes the ground was there, sometimes it wasn't. Sometimes the pump ran, sometimes it didn't (internal fault in pump) Check the ground wiring and bang on the fuel tank, doing so might make the pump run, which if it does you know the pump is faulty.

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