Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Clearing out heaps of bits from my recent build.

Have pretty much all the interior.

- Dash

- Cluster

- Tripple gauges with boost, oil temp and voltage also have the boost sensor it still works

- Door cards

- Front seats

- Back seats

- Trim panels

- Interior loom

- Hood lining

- Carpets

- Centre Console

- Glovebox

- Interior lights

- Steering surround

- Indicator/ Wiper stalk

- Ignition Barrel (can also sell with boot latch, door latches etc so can have all matching Keys)

- Pillar mouldings

- Seatbelts

Possibly more i have just forgotten alot

Engine Bay

- Stock OP6 turbo

- Split HKS Style dump pipe

- Blitz Down pipe

- Full 3" system with high flow 100cell cat

- Stock intake manifold

- Stock Highly polished inlet manifold

- Stock ECU

- ABS pump

- ABS module

- Hicas Computer

- TCS Computer

- TB with TCS

- Oil heater assembly

- eBay stainless high mount manifold T3 with external gate

Once again heaps more just ask what you want

All located in SA but can post if needed. Dont really know prices but shoot me reasonable offers and its probs all yours

Hi,

Can I get pics of the AC controller and centre console surround (to go around the factory CD player etc)

Hey mate, sorry sold already. That got snapped up fast

headlights?

They are zenon headlights and the lenses are abit cloudy but could come out with a decent buff and polish. Shoot me an inbox with a price

3" system $300

post-96314-14316857221104_thumb.jpg

Headlights just a pic for condition. Both are abit cloudy with a polish came up alright. Pass side has one broken tab where it bolts up behind the guard. $500

post-96314-14316857451646_thumb.jpg

Wouldn't happen to have a steering wheel?

What's the quality of the centre console + dash?

And would the seats fit straight onto a GTT?

Edited by 00RORY

Hey buddy nah dont have the steering wheel but i have the steering wheel HICAS ring and airbag etc... Centre console and dash are in good condition no cracks or scratches etc.. and Yeah seats are out a GTT so will be direct bolt in. But they could use abit of a clean just some carpet cleaner will bring them up just been sitting in the shed getting dusty

The dump and down pipe are sold. So would be cat to tip if your interested. And say 250 its yours the cat is like new and that was 150 alone. Shoot me a pm and can talk about shipping

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Saruthewhite hasn’t been on our site since November 2016 sorry mate
    • Note when Duncan says that, he means "when you're not using the correct lifting points on the sills, because you want to work on the sills. A 2 post hoist is not appropriate for everything anyway, and working on the sills is a good example of that, because the arms go under ths sills anyway. You're better off finding another way to support the car off the ground. Beyond that everything else D said is correct. Only the dedicated jacking points are the correct place to lift. Anywhere else is incorrect, extra caution and awareness must be used, etc etc.
    • Your off site links didn't work for me, and in any case it is easier for forum members if you post the pic directly either as an attachment or a link so the information is all in one place. That aside, the sills are the correct place to lift the car, whether with the factory jack or a hoist. Yes you should use rubber blocks with a slit for the seam on a hoist to avoid bending the pinch weld (where yours is currently bent, just bend it back if possible eg vicegrips), and be aware of the height you need in the blocks to clear any sill extensions to the hoist arms as it lifts If what you are doing needs access to the sills, the rear subframe bush would also be strong and secure. I'm not sure what you mean by sidemember (maybe same part I mean by sills) but be careful that your front support point is not too far back as the car is very front heavy and could overbalance.
    • Here's my first iteration - white duct tape so color is off, but this is just a straight line across the bonnet lip. From a geometry standpoint, this is probably closest to what a GTR has. Next up is some $5 white pearl vinyl and some rubber door sill trim, applied to the BACK of the bonnet lip. It's more accurate placement to the GTR, but also follows the body lines on this setup a bit more. Couple more pics on this config incoming: Again, a $5 vinyl and rubber job, it's  POC still and not how I'm gonna run this part. But one thing I'll note is that the black trim does need to "straighten out" a bit, and instead of going completely along the line of the bonnet lip, might be better suited to wrap over the "horns" of the bonnet lip, giving it a less aggressive curve up at the ends.  The correct way to do this would be to paint it body-matched and then decide how you want to make the black line. If you used paint or a pinstripe, you could have the black line go straight to the corner of the headlight where the rubber strip typically meets the headlight on a GTR.   Hope this helps!
×
×
  • Create New...