New Wasteland Wa Topic

[TiTAN]

Get some solid use out of it.

They take ages to build even if insurance for pays out after all.

[t_revz]

1 hour ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Post some pics when you've finished? The work you have done sounds top notch. Wouldn't expect anything else after seeing the engine fit and engine bay pics. You're a animal!

quick diagram of it. the only thing that isnt complete is fitting the ducting from the ceiling enclosure to the bedrooms. i was thinking about using 100mm stormwater pipe to each room but now im after 100mm steel piping to use instead. 

[Beyond Blue R33]

quick diagram of it. the only thing that isnt complete is fitting the ducting from the ceiling enclosure to the bedrooms. i was thinking about using 100mm stormwater pipe to each room but now im after 100mm steel piping to use instead. 

Insane. The tubing system should be 0.7mm s/s crimped and swaged. Dual 45* off the main flu would be better than a 90* t piece for draw. If it's running off at 90*. A dogs leg in the insulated flu section would help the heat stay downstairs and run off to the rooms better. The storm water pipe would melt and should never be used for this application off a wood heater. 0.7 s/s crimped and swaged inside insulated through the walls and roof. The storm water pipe would only be good for a reverse cycle system and is totally inappropriate for a wood heater.

[t_revz]

4 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Insane. The tubing system should be 0.7mm s/s crimped and swaged. Dual 45* off the main flu would be better than a 90* t piece for draw. If it's running off at 90*. A dogs leg in the insulated flu section would help the heat stay downstairs and run off to the rooms better. The storm water pipe would melt and should never be used for this application off a wood heater. 0.7 s/s crimped and swaged inside insulated through the walls and roof. The storm water pipe would only be good for a reverse cycle system and is totally inappropriate for a wood heater.

when i tested last season the enclosure temp was only 40C max. now that the bottom section isnt insulated the temp is much higher and i have to change to steel. 

 

where can i get 100mm steel pipes at a reasonable price? think gutter down pipe is only 70mm.... flue piping is probably too expensive....ideas?

[t_revz]

technically it could be bigger than 100mm, i have already fitted one of the motors into an enclosure with 100mm in/out which i could step up to another size

[Beyond Blue R33]

when i tested last season the enclosure temp was only 40C max. now that the bottom section isnt insulated the temp is much higher and i have to change to steel. 
 
where can i get 100mm steel pipes at a reasonable price? think gutter down pipe is only 70mm.... flue piping is probably too expensive....ideas?

We have m.s.t. and s.s.t. at work it's 101.6 mm o/d (4") and 1.6 mm or 16# thick (for exhaust systems) 70mm would be 2 3/4" o/d. And the same thickness. Most stuff to do with heating and flues is 304 s/s 0.7mm thick because of its heat transfer properties. We sell it by the metre in s/s and m/s at work (the 16#) If you know what you want and let me know will be cost price:-) or Jarrahdale heating and cooling or perhaps kounis metal industries have the crimped lapped and swaged 0.7mm at God only knows what price. Will post a pic of the 0.7 crimped and swaged from my heater.

[Beyond Blue R33]

We have m.s.t. and s.s.t. at work it's 101.6 mm o/d (4") and 1.6 mm or 16# thick (for exhaust systems) 70mm would be 2 3/4" o/d. And the same thickness. Most stuff to do with heating and flues is 304 s/s 0.7mm thick because of its heat transfer properties. We sell it by the metre in s/s and m/s at work (the 16#) If you know what you want and let me know will be cost price:-) or Jarrahdale heating and cooling or perhaps kounis metal industries have the crimped lapped and swaged 0.7mm at God only knows what price. Will post a pic of the 0.7 crimped and swaged from my heater.

[t_revz]

20 hours ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

We have m.s.t. and s.s.t. at work it's 101.6 mm o/d (4") and 1.6 mm or 16# thick (for exhaust systems) 70mm would be 2 3/4" o/d. And the same thickness. Most stuff to do with heating and flues is 304 s/s 0.7mm thick because of its heat transfer properties. We sell it by the metre in s/s and m/s at work (the 16#) If you know what you want and let me know will be cost price:-) or Jarrahdale heating and cooling or perhaps kounis metal industries have the crimped lapped and swaged 0.7mm at God only knows what price. Will post a pic of the 0.7 crimped and swaged from my heater.

cheers, a rough price on mst 4" would be good thanks. no idea how much i need yet but say 20metres at a guess

[t_revz]

just found stratco sells zinc downpipes in 10 different sizes including 100mm. i dare say it will be pretty cheap as its so thin 0.4 or 0.5mm

[Beyond Blue R33]

just found stratco sells zinc downpipes in 10 different sizes including 100mm. i dare say it will be pretty cheap as its so thin 0.4 or 0.5mm

Perfect would be way cheaper than s/s or a heavier guage. The zincalume will last for ever indoors.

[Beyond Blue R33]

Perfect would be way cheaper than s/s or a heavier guage. The zincalume will last for ever indoors.

Maybe just get one length check how hot it gets? you could lag it where it's near wood gyprock etc. With needle felt fibre glass or the fibreglass roll tape stuff. Or anything else that is itchy. Man I hate lagging stuff up.

[t_revz]

45 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Maybe just get one length check how hot it gets? you could lag it where it's near wood gyprock etc. With needle felt fibre glass or the fibreglass roll tape stuff. Or anything else that is itchy. Man I hate lagging stuff up.

due to smaller ventilation holes to the top, plus the top section being an insulated flue the absolute max i would expect coming out of the enclosure is 60C and could possibly be only 50C. id rather have metal pipe from the enclosure down to the fans but it shouldnt be that hot that i need to keep it away from timber etc...

 

as always i test very thoroughly and i will know the actual temp next days off and build it with a higher than actual temp spec in mind

[t_revz]

59 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Perfect would be way cheaper than s/s or a heavier guage. The zincalume will last for ever indoors.

yeah i thought it would prob be cheaper. thanks anyway

[z00key]

Morning all

[turboedsloth]

On 5/20/2017 at 9:54 PM, t_revz said:

when i tested last season the enclosure temp was only 40C max. now that the bottom section isnt insulated the temp is much higher and i have to change to steel. 

 

where can i get 100mm steel pipes at a reasonable price? think gutter down pipe is only 70mm.... flue piping is probably too expensive....ideas?

Salvage yard if stratco arent cost effective?

[TiTAN]

Maybe just get one length check how hot it gets? you could lag it where it's near wood gyprock etc. With needle felt fibre glass or the fibreglass roll tape stuff. Or anything else that is itchy. Man I hate lagging stuff up.

What about the silver foil backed stuff for under metal roofing?

[TiTAN]

https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwool-r-1-3-55mm-18m2-space-blanket-under-metal-roof-insulation_p0810887

This stuff, would just need to use foil tape to seal it around the pipework.

[Hank Scorpio]

On 5/12/2017 at 1:47 PM, colin.ssc said:

@Hank Scorpio recommended camber arms brands? Thinking of getting F&R set for the 36 but not sure if the cost of getting it is of any benefit lol

I like Japanese stuff, Cusco and Kazama are always good.

[colin.ssc]

Hanks alive! Yea don't think there's Cusco ones for the V36...can you check?

[Beyond Blue R33]

https://www.bunnings.com.au/earthwool-r-1-3-55mm-18m2-space-blanket-under-metal-roof-insulation_p0810887

This stuff, would just need to use foil tape to seal it around the pipework.

Looks very itchy so would do the trick.