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the car is running perfectly (aside from the leak), but it's unregistered so I can't get it down to bunbury. I can nearly reach the hose with my fingers from the top of the engine, they're just not long enough.

That being said, I don't have the know-how to remove all of that stuff, and it sounds near impossible to do in my drive way.... hmm. Will most likely look into it tomorrow when the sun is up and come up with a plan.

If anyone is in the Forrestfield Area with the know-how and feel like helping, hit me up so can plan this better.

Was thinking of starting a thread like the music one "what are you listining to" but call it "what are you laughing at" not having facepage i miss out on some of these.

Tried the lulz thread?

  • Like 1

I'll upload two more photos in an attempt to show where it is, in one of the photos of can clearly see it gushing out coolant. It's at the rear of the motor, just behind the rocker cover underneath another pipe.

http://imgur.com/a/bTzuJ

cUgBRKE.jpg

U42wbEM.jpg

Yeah, not many 4 door R33 GTST's out there with a manual transmission. Don't worry, I'll fix that problem eventually, right now I need to get this car registered.

Besides - Auto's win races ;)

Edited by Manne
  • Like 2

Manne, you'll be right. I had to do that same hose on a 300zx tuesday, You have 0 things to complain about

I'm not complaining, I value the educational experience.

any advice? approach from under the engine or above? I was reading somewhere that removing the starter motor gives you more access?




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    • Dunno what to tell you, when I look at it on Consult I can see this warmup timing map kicking in around 40C coolant temp and it sticks around for a while:  At part throttle on the normal base timing map it peaks around ~43 degrees of timing or something like that, this warmup timing map drops it to like 12-15 degrees. 
    • I don't think that's what you're seeing. Something else doing that. The only time I've seen it get so retarded is when it's trying to control idle (in which case we're not talking about mapped timing tagets anyway) and when there is an extreme coolant temperature sensor fault. The RB26 ECU is essentially the same as the 20 ECU and I knew that ging inside out. There is no facility for it to retard that heavily on cold start. The OEMs never used to do it back then. I mean, shit, the catalyst is abotu 3 miles down the exhaust anyway. Early light-off was just a twinkle in some EPA arsehole's eye back then, not a regular engine control strategy.
    • I must preface my comments with a general expression of ignorance. I have no specific knowledge of these NA automtaic things. I can only assume that the "steering wheel button" is for enabling the tiptronic controls. Wierd that it would even need/want a button for that... But anyway.... Was the car previously tiptronic? Did you put a new cluster in as part of all this?
    • Regardless, it doesn't seem wise especially on RBs to actually chase MBT. Timing scatter is the big one on stock CAS, even if that's fixed overshoot is worse than undershoot. 
    • It's all about reducing the overall output. Reduce the source of it, you have wayyyy less to deal with in every other step and trick you play with. It's why something like a modern vehicle, so VW, Audi etc, there's thousands of tables for the ECU to calculate what it should be doing with the engine.   Why would you NOT reduce emissions the most effective way possible, when it has very minimal tradeoff, AND manufacturers are always struggling to meet the current standards.
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