Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

didn't find too much info or any thread on these. Anyone else using or have experience with Gizzmo's k-lite knock sensor/light? I've had mine on abut a week and it's calibrated and seems to work fine, picked up medium-level knock on a full-throttle hill climb that seemed about bang on the money. One thing to query if anyone else has experience with them, is it seems it runs through the engine analysis around every 2 minutes which gets pretty annoying for daily driving...those led's are pretty damn bright....once set I would have thought it would just keep that setting and only light up for knock detected but doesn't seem to be the case, and then instructions and info supplied are very basic, doesn't go into detail if this is normal operation..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456685-gizzmo-k-lite-knock-sensor-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

alright I feel this is a fair review of the product after running it for a while now...it's one of the worst things I've bought for some time. As above it randomly runs through the calibration sequences (and gives itself different calibrations each time) and doesn't hold the calibration I've set into it. I got a changeover unit and wiring loom from Gizzmo, and bought my own new knock sensor, but still does the same thing. It's not completely useless, in that it does record higher noise under load but its only a vague guide rather than anything reliable. It will randomly throw up a high reading at idle or very light load, and occasionally when the car hits a big bump in the road, that sot of thing. The customer support from Gizzmo was ok, but unfortunately, not much more than that. He offered a refund, and sent the new unit and loom for changeover, which was appreciated, but couldn't offer any suggestions on troubleshooting my install after I described it and sent pics and a video of it randomly calibrating itself, and no suggestions or solutions on the problem other than 'dunno, never seen that before'. An rb25's not exactly a rare, or excessively low or high tech motor after all. The instructions are basic and vague like "it will flash that setting for an extended period"....like what, 5 seconds, 2 minutes? So anyway, it is a pity as it's a product that could have been a lot of use. In the absence of something better I'll leave it on the car but as a general point of reference only, I don't feel it could be relied upon any more than that. Hopefully others have tried it on Skylines and had better experiences with it than this.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...