Wheel Alignment And Back End Handling Issue

[dori34]

so just recently got a wheel alignment done to the below specs. settings i've found from searching the forum and posted by sydneykid.

the back end feels wobbly/loose when i hit any bumps in the road and it wiggles side to side.

I jacked the car up and could see the rear hicas arm ball joint in the hub is worn on both sides,I assume this would cause the above issues?

am i better off replacing the worn ball joints or go with hicas eliminiator kit from driftworks etc.

i initially thought it was due to needing an alignment after all the adj arms went in but looks like it made no difference as it was experienced before. Pedders said the rear toe kept changing on it's own when they tried to set the toe right to my specs so it could be related to the worn ball joints... they but couldn't say why or what was causing this and before anyone says it, i know i shouldn't of went to pedders but i was desperate for an alignment on a saturday arvo...

they also mentioned my KPI and Included Angle should be the same, as they are different indicates a bent hub, is this true?

current handling mods are

adj front caster

adj rear camber

HSD dualtech coilovers (damper adjustment makes no difference)

hicas lock bar

subframe collars

appreciate any of your comments.

[MrStabby]

Yeah rear toe out will make the rear unstable. So get the slop out then set it to zero. You said "rear hicas arm" but there's only one hicas arm each side (no front/rear) so double check your understanding about the arms. There is a ball joint that looks like a tie rod end on the outer end of the hicas arm, dont know whats on the inside but i'm guessing its similar. If any of the other ball joints are loose get them replaced too and do them all at once, before you get the next alignment.

The KPI / included angle statement sound bogus because that would mean you have two bent hubs.

If you're anywhere near Tempe go to Heasmans.

[PN-Mad]

Yes, my initial thought was sounds like rear toe is aggressive, as I've had a similar issue.

Looking through the specs, exactly as I thought. Get it reduced to 1mm total, and I suspect you'll find a good outcome.

[GTSBoy]

The thing is.....the new settings are not substantially different to the old. It should have been similar to drive before. The rear toe out average is the same as before, it's just less biased to one side.

Otherwise, I agree with what was said above.

[dori34]

about the before and after.

the before settings was the new settngs after the original settings got wiped as they had to redo it as i mentioned the toe was changing on its own.

front and rear toe were completely out prior to getting the alignment done.

been searching up that hicas bushes can do this so i checked them out and theyre both worn with torn rubber boots.

pretty certain my control arm ball join boots are torn also so will probably just replace them all at the same time and give the suspension a freshen up.

[GTSBoy]

There are no "boots" associated with these joints.

[dori34]

whatever the rubber covers over the ball joint is called. this is what mine look like, this could be culprit of back end wiggle ?

anyone used the chinaspec ball joints or have any issues with them?

if they last a few years i'll happy.

$60 delivered for 2 vs 1x for $80 + delivery....

[GTSBoy]

Sorry, I thought you were talking about another arm.

[dori34]

will try reducing toe to 1mm total and see if it improves.

dont want to pay for a full alignment just to adjust toe so will try do some home adjustments until i get the ball joints fixed.

Thanks guys

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

bring it to BT Motorsport, like $65 and they dial in whatever you want.. pretty cheap IMO.

FWIW, I run 8 degree front castor and 1mm toe out each side up front.. rear has -1 degree camber and 0 toe. Car is planted as fuark.

[dori34]

is that in Smithfield ?

if so I will do after i change my balljoints..

i use to go jax in livo but they apparently stopped doing custom wheel alignments on weekends cause it takes up too much time... ironically the wheel alignment machine was empty for 20mins as i waited....

grrr i think pedders stuffed up my alignment because when turning left, the steering wheel doesnt rotate back and needs manual input,

where as turning right it rotates back itself.

[GTSBoy]

grrr i think pedders stuffed up my alignment because when turning left, the steering wheel doesnt rotate back and needs manual input,

where as turning right it rotates back itself.

There's that "P" word again. I have refused to use them since about 1988.

[Kinks]

Going to Pedders and expecting quality suspension work is like going to Maccas and expecting a quality dinner.

If you ball joints are worn and have play then the change in toe will definitely make the suspension feel wobbly no matter what else you try. It's pointless trying to align worn suspension.

You have 4mm rear toe in at the moment (+ve toe is toe in). 4mm toe in is huge, and pointless. Fix the ball joints and then set zero toe front and rear. As a baseline that is a good setting.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

is that in Smithfield ?

if so I will do after i change my balljoints..

i use to go jax in livo but they apparently stopped doing custom wheel alignments on weekends cause it takes up too much time... ironically the wheel alignment machine was empty for 20mins as i waited....

Correct, Daniel used to work at BT Motorsports but then moved to Bridgestone at Liverpool. They still do custom wheel alignments when Daniel is there however their clamp doesn't fit around wide tyres. I brought my R33 with 255 R compounds all round and they couldn't get the alignment tool to sit on the wheel properly. So their manager suggested I go to BT Motorsport (they own both).

[dori34]

P***** lol

Cheers johnny!

Kinks, that's the plan.

thanks guys