Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been a long time since I've had to ask for any assistance from this forum but was hoping someone might be able to give me what they think the noise in the video could be.

Basically I've done a timing belt change, new tensioner & idler pulley & new water pump (gates brand). I don't think I over tensioned anything - the TB was tight to get on but figured that would be the case for a new TB. All timing marks lined up as per the instructions in the service manual & old mates tutorial on how to do it. With my head down near the cams the sound definetly sounds like it's coming from under the cam cover - or could be from the front of the car somewhere (possible alternator bearing?)

Any help on the topic is greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

trim.981641ED-F8C3-4985-B83D-7B163BF7E5FD.MOV

Edited by BstewyR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456743-engine-noise/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Just as an update - I left the TB as it was tension wise to investigate the whining noise being something else.

After doing the old metal pole onto the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, ac compressor and listening for any sort of noise - I couldn't find anything abnormal from any of those.

Searched for any information on bearings that run off those belts and came to the conclusion it was the AC tension pulley. The main reason coming to this conclusion was that the noise didn't get loader on turning the steering wheel - cancelling the PS pump. It was any loader on start up or general running - cancelling out alternator and TB, it didn't get any louder when turning on and off the AC - cancelling out the compressor. The only bearing left was the tension pulley.

Pulled it off - could hear that was rolling ruff ( when you hear what a new bearing sounds like - you know the sound it shouldn't make)

I swapped this bearing out and no more whining sound, which I'm cheering about!

The bearing itself was $7 from bursons (6301)

The video is after everything the new bearing has been fitted to the pulley - no whining noise

IMG_0135.MOV

Edited by BstewyR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456743-engine-noise/#findComment-7544677
Share on other sites

Cheers lads, yea a cheap fix & cheap win for sure.

Got quoted for a Genuine compressor from Japan - $2000ish

A company on the Southwest of Brisbane had O/E for $695 or aftermarket for $595

A shop wanted to charge around $1400 to degas, rebuild, fit & regas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456743-engine-noise/#findComment-7544744
Share on other sites

Was that shop in brisbane quoting for a replacement comp that was genuine or just one of the well known brands? I think mine might die soon so keen to see what options i have comp wise. Ive quoted oem ones at the same price from Japan. Bit rediculous lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456743-engine-noise/#findComment-7544766
Share on other sites

A/C compressors are much of a muchness. They do the same job, I certainly wouldnt go out of my way to source a Nissan compressor when an equivelant replacement can be had for 1/3rd of the price

Thanks for posting that, hopefully I wont need it but will be a good reference if I ever do :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456743-engine-noise/#findComment-7545407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, you are right. It seems easier and more reasonable to boost the engine. And as you said the blocks are very similar but the cylinder bores are different.
    • Sound logic, but in actuality way more illegal than just having the wrong pipe. Normally, doing something like that would be forgery. Meaning you may have certain documentation for vehicle parts, but the actual parts are different ones and you just assign them the numbers and badging from the documents. But nevermind that. Nonetheless, I AM curious if this pipe was ever made by any official manufacturer this way, because I honestly am not familiar with this pipe layout and shape. As I will be putting on the HKS Silent Hi Power once my exhaust gaskets arrive, as long as it sounds right I will just roll with this front pipe. I can always order the actual Mines part if I run into legal issues. It would be an unnecessary expense as there is lots of other problems I have on this car as of now.
    • So, weld a plate with the Mines logo laser cut into it, onto it. Instant Mines pipes, whether they were or weren't originally.
    • I don't know if the blocks are "the same". They will be very very similar. Obviously, either the bore or the stroke is going to be bigger on the 20. If the bore is bigger, then the 18 head is unlikely to fit properly. If the bore is the same, then you can almost certainly fit the CA18 head, but there migth be a few fun things you have to do to make water galleries (or other things) line up properly. Or... it could just be real easy. Is it worth the effort? Almost certainly not. You can make nearly as much power on a 2 valv ehead as you can on a 4 valve. There's not any "magic" in a 4 valve head.
    • Yes, me too!!!!  I need to find a something that has all the abbreviations for what these cars have LOL
×
×
  • Create New...