Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will post pics soon. BUT in mean time I took the covers off my other r34 and the timing marks are the same-1 tooth clockwise out so it must be like that for a reason as if I put adjustable cam gear on you can adjust it there so I'm gunna put it back to a tooth out and see if my car runs good again so I shall let you know if all good.. Cheers

That is very interesting! When i did all of mine, the belt looked like it had never been changed, so that's why I was skeptical it was an error by someone else. Looked all Nissan factory. Haven't started mine yet, so would be keen to see what happens!

Iruvyouskyrine what pics would you like as mine before I did the belt change mine looked exactly the same as the pics that are on this thread and that's how I will be putting it back to but at moment I've got all timing marks spot on the marks. Even my cas was in same place as pics already posted...it must be like that from factory (1 tooth out clockwise) as even my other 34 is the same and that 34 only has 62000 on clock and has not been changed.. I will post again soon and let ya know how things go when I put it back to a tooth out!!! But I think problem solved... HOPEFULLY...

Hah! Well that's not very good for me :P Good thing I haven't finished the engine yet.

So just 1 tooth forward on the exhaust and all is well? Could this really be a factory Nissan thing? Even though the FSM states to line the marks up.

Surely someone else here has done a 34 timing belt? Anyone else seen this?

Mick, so you turned the exhaust cam retarded by 15 deg but put the CAS back how it was before you started ?

So the ignition timing and injector timing is 15 deg retarded

Or did you reset the base timing ( CAS ) to factory spec with a timing light

A change like this with a tuned ECU chip would very least require a run on the dyno to make sure it's ok still

Hi xklaba, yeah I put the cas back to were it was b4 roughly in center and it's running perfect. I'm putting the timing light on it tonight after work and it's booked in for a dyno tune as I'm putting a power fc inplace of the nistune also putting all my plazmaman stuff and going bigger injectors. Will keep this post informed but it is weird that even my other 34 is a tooth out aswell and my other 34 is stock. I'm just glad it's running perfect again can't wait for the dyno tune as last time it pulled 371.1kw anyway I will let ya know how the timing is later. Cheers

I took pics of it being the tooth out I will post when I get home and that's how it is now. My mate helped me with doing it and he owns cylinder head and development so I think we ain't looking from any crazy angle and even he spun out about both my 34's being out.. if ya anywhere near Geelong Victoria you are more than welcome to come look it over.. 1 car is stock and my other has abit of work like tomie cams, 800cc injectors and about to go bigger,nistune type4 board, hiflowed Garrett turbo, Spitfire coils plus lots more and about to get more done and at moment 371.1kw ain't to bad...

Ben, Check out my pics of my timing belt. I took them both at the same angles. No way it's a crazy angle causing parallax error. I took the photos from straight on, you can clearly see it was 1 tooth clockwise on the exhaust. And the thing was my motor didn't look like it had ever had a major service done.

Really hard to say what to do! Because I have mine set in the "lined up" position now, and i'm unsure if I should change it back!

Best bet for all who are concerned would be to call a performance workshop that has built a lot of RBs and find out what they know.

FWIW, another thought I had is that for anyone who had their ECU tuned with the cam timing a tooth out, it probably WOULD run worse if you put the timing right but left the tune "wrong".

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy on your suggestion on another thread I had a look at those injectors and ended up getting them because of the quality.  Got the expensive ones.  
    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...