Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will post pics soon. BUT in mean time I took the covers off my other r34 and the timing marks are the same-1 tooth clockwise out so it must be like that for a reason as if I put adjustable cam gear on you can adjust it there so I'm gunna put it back to a tooth out and see if my car runs good again so I shall let you know if all good.. Cheers

That is very interesting! When i did all of mine, the belt looked like it had never been changed, so that's why I was skeptical it was an error by someone else. Looked all Nissan factory. Haven't started mine yet, so would be keen to see what happens!

Iruvyouskyrine what pics would you like as mine before I did the belt change mine looked exactly the same as the pics that are on this thread and that's how I will be putting it back to but at moment I've got all timing marks spot on the marks. Even my cas was in same place as pics already posted...it must be like that from factory (1 tooth out clockwise) as even my other 34 is the same and that 34 only has 62000 on clock and has not been changed.. I will post again soon and let ya know how things go when I put it back to a tooth out!!! But I think problem solved... HOPEFULLY...

Hah! Well that's not very good for me :P Good thing I haven't finished the engine yet.

So just 1 tooth forward on the exhaust and all is well? Could this really be a factory Nissan thing? Even though the FSM states to line the marks up.

Surely someone else here has done a 34 timing belt? Anyone else seen this?

Mick, so you turned the exhaust cam retarded by 15 deg but put the CAS back how it was before you started ?

So the ignition timing and injector timing is 15 deg retarded

Or did you reset the base timing ( CAS ) to factory spec with a timing light

A change like this with a tuned ECU chip would very least require a run on the dyno to make sure it's ok still

Hi xklaba, yeah I put the cas back to were it was b4 roughly in center and it's running perfect. I'm putting the timing light on it tonight after work and it's booked in for a dyno tune as I'm putting a power fc inplace of the nistune also putting all my plazmaman stuff and going bigger injectors. Will keep this post informed but it is weird that even my other 34 is a tooth out aswell and my other 34 is stock. I'm just glad it's running perfect again can't wait for the dyno tune as last time it pulled 371.1kw anyway I will let ya know how the timing is later. Cheers

I took pics of it being the tooth out I will post when I get home and that's how it is now. My mate helped me with doing it and he owns cylinder head and development so I think we ain't looking from any crazy angle and even he spun out about both my 34's being out.. if ya anywhere near Geelong Victoria you are more than welcome to come look it over.. 1 car is stock and my other has abit of work like tomie cams, 800cc injectors and about to go bigger,nistune type4 board, hiflowed Garrett turbo, Spitfire coils plus lots more and about to get more done and at moment 371.1kw ain't to bad...

Ben, Check out my pics of my timing belt. I took them both at the same angles. No way it's a crazy angle causing parallax error. I took the photos from straight on, you can clearly see it was 1 tooth clockwise on the exhaust. And the thing was my motor didn't look like it had ever had a major service done.

Really hard to say what to do! Because I have mine set in the "lined up" position now, and i'm unsure if I should change it back!

Best bet for all who are concerned would be to call a performance workshop that has built a lot of RBs and find out what they know.

FWIW, another thought I had is that for anyone who had their ECU tuned with the cam timing a tooth out, it probably WOULD run worse if you put the timing right but left the tune "wrong".

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...