Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently got my 25/30 car back and thought give it a drive. 5 mins of giving it some curry my catch can was full and overflowed through the breather filter. Painted a mural in my engine bay haha. Now my main question is would a catch can with a drain back to the sump be equivalent to the head drain kits such as spool and lewis engines? I have a welded on fitting on my sump for the VCT line so I can either t-piece catch can into that or the normal turbo drain

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456940-catch-can-full/
Share on other sites

This drain here goes into the sump fitting I welded on. Now T my catch can Into that or the turbo oil drain will that be equivalent to a oil drain kit they put in the back of the head. Since all I've read is that is just equals out air pressures so it drains for efficiently

post-74608-14325482468466_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456940-catch-can-full/#findComment-7539812
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Did you put a restrictor in the VCT oil feed? This is only needed for non Neo type cylinder heads. When the VCT switches on, the head will flood with the excessive oil supplied and push out the breathers.

1.25mm is the restrictor size in the R33 RB25 block from memory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456940-catch-can-full/#findComment-7602103
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The steering wheel on my 97 s3 gtr is a little bit worn out, so im on the hunt for something mint. I notice that this type of steering wheel is on several other nissan's of the era.  Does anyone know if their all identical, or are there slight differences? I feel like gtr tax applies to anyone selling one, but if it comes from any other car the price is much less, even though its the same design.  Chat gpt says the material for the gtr is slightly different and it says gtr on the wheel, but every pic ive seen it just says nissan. 
    • I might have to say it.
    • Ahh... it's an early RE5R01A box, that means the pinouts I gave are wrong (they were for the RE4R01A 4-speed box)... I'll have to dig around in my docs to see if I've got that schematic (they used the same gearbox plug, with the vacant pin wired to the direct drive clutch solenoid)...prolly hidden away in a supplement somewhere... ...there were 3 variants of the RE5R01A ~ this early schema was what we called the 'dumb' 5 speed ; it's what jatco called a 'medium duty' box, with torque holding up roughly ~200ft/lbs or so, which was good for NA from RB20/25DE and up to around VG30 output spec. With the RB25DET (and VG33/35 mills), the only options they had was the 4-speed 4AX00 box, which had been beefed up to handle the extra torque (primarily for the VG35, but it also suited the RB25DET mill and others)...and the RE4R03 box in large 4WDs a lot of the time... ...the next variant of 5-speed was redesigned, stronger, and 'smart'...first ones had external TCU with internal (on valvebody) Shift Control Unit, pressure switches, and 2 x TSS...and the last ones had internal TCU+SCU setup, with CANbus control etc etc. @DRoc81 On the RHS of the box towards the rear, there should be a stamped silver ID tag -- what's the model number? Oh...and with the early 5-speeds, the torque converter control solenoid assembly should be replaced as well (31940-60X00)...it's a bit Murphy's Law ....if one has failed, bet on the rest not being far behind ...
    • I remembered wrong, but was close though 1Kz setting because those Jaycar SSRs don't go any faster, 1x pump per SSR with flyback diodes & heatsinks. In saying that, the heatsinks are overkill. Just on an alloy plate is more than sufficient. You'll find without a flyback diode, your SSRs will heat up big time and also die prematurely.  I've been running the two same SSRs since the last motor, no issues, car does 2 hour straight drives in summer once in a while and gets punished on the track. Nothing melts, no hot messes, etc.    
    • Hmm. You're probably best off working out what the lobe centreline or even the LSA is for the stock cams, with VCT OFF. That's bound to be out there somewhere. Then, work on the assumption that the Kelford centreline is probably the same, and wouldn't be more than a couple of degrees away, if it is different at all. I'm very surprised that you needed to adjust the exhaust cam by 5° to get it on spec. That screams there's another problem somewhere. Anything from the belt being 1 tooth off (how many degrees is one tooth worth?) to simple user/measurement error on the degree wheel. I say this because Kelford, like most quality cam manufacturers these days, does a pretty good job of actually making the cams to spec, not relying on patching it up afterwards like we had to do back in the 80s.
×
×
  • Create New...