Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb3025 Start Up Oil Pressure Issues

SkudR33

By SkudR33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Recently finished my build and have only clocked about 1,000kms on the new motor.

Having a small issue which has had me baffled for a few weeks now.

My oil pressure light stays on when I start the car and is very lazy to build pressure. I think (on a cold morning) it takes upto 2 seconds for oil pressure to build up. I can also confirm that I hear the hydraulic lifters tapping loudly until the light turns off.

Once the car is on, my oil pressure is fine. Starts off nice and high and reduces to a good level as the oil warms up.

So to clarify, I have absolutely no oil pressure issues once the car is on and I'm driving.

I've tried researching a lot and can't find any decent leads - I'd greatly appreciate if you guys could provide me with some advice on how to resolve this issue!

I'm desperate for help as I'm leaning towards buying an oil accumulator to resolve this issue - i just don't want to blanket cover a deeper problem.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What brand of oil filter?

I'm using a k&n oil filter. I was originally using a ryco, I've replaced the oil and the filter. Hasn't made much of a difference to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Is... Is this not normal..?

Mine takes about that time, my daily even longer.

I got no idea. My rb25det didn't used to do that though... Plus i reckon it shortens the life of the engine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what oil you using?

what mods done to engine?

any oil cooler or additional things in oiling system?

what guage?

Oil: royal purple 10w:40

Mods to engine: 40 thou forged Pistons and rods, crank with extended crank collar, n1 oil pump with standard gears, standard oil sump + pickup, cancelled VCT and grub screwed the feed.

Additions to oil system: none at the moment - only thing I did was fit the stock rb25 oil cooler thing to the rb30. Not using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge... Using the shitty stock one at the moment.

I know the stock gauge is inaccurate, but I know the light is accurate because once it turns off, the tappet noises quieten down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
breaker1845 Community Regular

breaker1845

Posted
Posted

Your oil and filter choice is fine. But the pressure not building up instantly on start up is a problem. You shouldn't be seeing a delay in pressure build up and the light should not come on.

There is definitely some underlying problem and the tappet noise could well be related to it.

Is there anything you may have skimmed over in the build (if you did it yourself) accidentally or some kind of blockage/restriction?

Might want to check the oil cooler is not getting restricted, causing that slight delay in pressure build up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

what is the hot oil pressure reading? your not going to know this with OEM shitty gauge... get yourself an aftermarket one and sus it out. If over all pressure is low or it drops when hot then i'd dare say your bearing clearances are up shit creek

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Your oil and filter choice is fine. But the pressure not building up instantly on start up is a problem. You shouldn't be seeing a delay in pressure build up and the light should not come on.

There is definitely some underlying problem and the tappet noise could well be related to it.

Is there anything you may have skimmed over in the build (if you did it yourself) accidentally or some kind of blockage/restriction?

Might want to check the oil cooler is not getting restricted, causing that slight delay in pressure build up.

I built it myself with a mechanic over watching what I did. I don't recall missing anything and I'm not having any blowby issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

what is the hot oil pressure reading? your not going to know this with OEM shitty gauge... get yourself an aftermarket one and sus it out. If over all pressure is low or it drops when hot then i'd dare say your bearing clearances are up shit creek

Need an aftermarket gauge to tell you the exact pressure, but my oem gauge has similar readings to what I used to have before the rebuild. It seems as though issue is solely on startup but I do plan on getting a mechanical gauge thrown in to test...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Filter drainback valve thingo.

I already tested for that issue. I turned the car off and let it sit for a day and then unscrewed my oil filter and it was still full of oil. Unfortunately that's not my issue :(
Link to comment
Share on other sites
SkudR33 Proficient

SkudR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The grub screwed vct oil feed- would this have an affect?

Research has shown me that everybody does this so I didn't even think about it. The grub screw is in the head though, so would it effect oil pressure at the sender unit in the block?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Roy
      R32 GTS/GTST non driven wheel speed

      By Roy · Posted

      Another complicated thing is to run Z32 alloy hubs which have wheel speed sensors for ABS. You need different tie rod end, and you need new bearings on the upright etc. I did that as part of a major refresh when my front kingpin bearing flogged out., Alloy was a little lighter, runs a bigger bearing , gives a few extra mm in wheelbase as it moves the wheel forward in the arch (cant run crazy but can still get 8ish comfortably).   All in all glad I did it but was a head fark as tried it once and abandoned it the first time. sav man swung his spanners at it and got it working so using his guidance on GTR/Z32 tie rod ends etc and the required mismatch of parts was able to make it work.  Probably a 2k upgrade all said and done :(   I think the best bet is just look around your front wheel and see what you can pick up rotationally. You see old Escorts, E30s etc all get very creative with front uprights and the humble old angled alloy bracket.
    • Butters
      Garrett G-XRace Range

      By Butters · Posted

      Big claims here.  Any links up on the website ?   
    • Butters
      RB gearbox options

      By Butters · Posted

      If your HP goal is reasonable and you are not drifting. Buy a new R34 box.  If the above is not true, buy a wrecked R33 box and put a gearset in it.  CD09 are not as strong as you think and the cost of / mess around of the conversion puts you in gearset territory.    Also the deal above is awesome,, get that  
    • dbm7
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Just got back from a little hands-on with a G58 Baron....I was thinking about this... ..best I can figure it, that pinny was tail-ended ...I didn't really think about the wiring, because all that mattered was the tank and pump cradle (I think I mentioned the pump itself I couldn't vouch for)...which didn't matter, as you said you'd be replacing the pump anyway.... ...'for some reason'....and I imagine this is the panel shop's doing... they've replaced the cradle wiring with a metre of 7-core trailer loom, and attached the loom plug (from a different car) to that. The actual cable run from the top of the pump cradle, to fuel pump harness end in boot, is maybe 60cm in length...so I've no idea why they did this... ....the connector in the boot of the pinny, is not going to help you here...because in theory, it should still be present on your car. On top of that, because they've done what they did, we have no idea which colours of the trailer cabling, have been connected to what on the fuel pump cradle (pump +/- , shield, fuel guage/low-level senders)... ...this means, best approach is to remove the pump cradle, and re-work it now ...not later. That is, if you were going to replace the pump, do it, replace the soft lines at the same time...and sort the wiring out (replace that trailer cable with the wiring loom off your old cradle)...
    • GTSBoy
      Fake ARP bolts?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
×
×
  • Create New...