Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A friend of mine has a Stagea (GTR wagon) and after putting a new (R34) engine in it, it has developed a surge (from driveline) at light throttle (cruise). At the same time, it is giving too much drive (according to the torque split gauge) to the front wheels. Seems like it thinks the rear whells are spinning.

I'm not sure about the surge in the driveline at light throttle, are the tailshaft unijoints tight maybe?

As for front torque there really shouldn't be any unless you are either taking a corner hard or accellerating bloody hard so it sounds like something is wrong there. Is he using the same size wheels and tyres front to rear?

We are aware that it shouyld not have any torque going to the front wheels under the conditions that you describe. That is the problem. It's getting too much torque to the front wheels. When it is driven hard, the sterring wheel is just about being riped out of his hand.

Wheels are the same.

The surge and the torque split problem are one in the same.

Did he put in *just* the motor from the R34, or the front diff as well? As you are no doubt aware, R33 and R34 diff ratios are different - could explain the problem.

If the diffs are OK, I'd be checking simple things like tyre pressures and wear, and perhaps try rotating front to back.

How's the clutch? Maybe it's worn and somehow creating the problem? I know on gear changes torque seems to be directed to the front... I was experiencing the same problem you describe on 2 occasions: 1/when I had a dodgy clutch 2/ when my inner edges were scrubbed and the ECU thought tyres were rotating at different rates front:rear.

I had a similar problem with my GTS4 - it turned out the connections to the TPS were a bit suss. Make sure they are connected properly, maybe use a bit of contact cleaner on the terminals as well.

You should know what a TPS is - its not an item specific to Nissans, Toyotas have them too.

How is the wiring harness from the ATTESA controller to the transfer case? If there is a poor contact or broken wire you get this sort of stuff happening. Did you reset the ECU's before you started the engine? It may also be worthwhile getting one of Impakt's diagnostic displays (like a Nissan Dealer Consult) and checking out the sensors. The R34 engine sensors are slightly different to the R33's. Did you swap ALL of the R33 sensors (off the old engine) when you changed over to the new engine?

There are a few more things you can try, but I suspect one of the above will be the problem. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's more than one way to skin that cat, and most of the sump Maatouks have done will be GTR sumps. They are HUGE in GTR drag racing here.
    • Yeah...I always start at the shift solenoids, because there's only a few reasons these will spook into limp mode, and bad shift solenoids is one ~ the other can be the shift control module (if you have steering wheel shift buttons)...it's easier to eliminate the solenoids first.
    • Might piggy back off this thread since there's been a good discussion about PWM.   I purchased a Walbro 460 F90000267 and have been looking into PWM to understand it. It was purchased more of a future proof as my original OEM fuel pump died (r33 below 200kw) and figured I'd just upgrade it to this. That's when it hit me that a pump this big can cause more dramas with such high amperage draw and heating of the fuel pump being on 100% all the time in such a mild setup.   I have a Nexus R3 and slowly collecting power mods but I was looking into the PWM feature on the NSP software:   Then looking at the graph from the fuel pump:     Am I safe to assume reducing duty cycle to 50% for example would make the pump run like a 230/lph ? Where does the PWM come in all of this ?   I've gone down the rabbit hole of PWM fuel pumps and it seems there are many differing opinions on how to go about it 😅  
    • Thank you, this will keep me busy for a bit.  I will update progression.
    • That specific one would be an exchange part, meaning I'd have to send mine to them. Plus it looks like a non AWD sump, which won't work for me. There is one or two shops in my country that I can ask to do a sump extension job and it'd most likely end up being cheaper than sending mine to AUS or NZ and getting one back, and quicker too.
×
×
  • Create New...