Jump to content
SAU Community

Carbon Canister Removal And Engine Vacume

stranger12
 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Well still no answer to my question and bunch of advise:)

What i asked was is it ok that i have not vented the fume to air and back to the tank by creating a loop and no one seems to know!

You modified it, why don't you tell us...

You obviously did it for a reason, but without seeing exactly what lines you have changed and where they are plumbed I can't help you, neither can anyone else. It's bad enough tracing the stock hoses around the engine bay.

If you don't want the charcoal canister in there, I would be just blocking all the hoses, not looping anything. You will get arse raped if you get done for this on the road, I hope you understand.

Understand. Mixed the two up. ^_^

How do drag cars deal with it using a fuel cell for exsample. On like 100% Of fuel cells have two lower out let and two on the top. How do you control the vacuum that the fuel pump will creat sucking the fuel out.

Ive always wondered about this. Keeping in mind fuel vapors. Im thinking some kind of one way valve. Just a guess though.

Race fuel cells have a rollover protection vent, essentially a one way valve mounted in the top. It allows air in, but no fuel should come out even if you flip the car.

stranger12 Community Regular

stranger12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when you say pressurised, what do you mean ? as not been able to open the fuel cap ?

I have looped it back to the tank so any vapour goes back in to the tank thus no harm to environment opposed to what people accuse me of:)

What I am asking is , is that ok ? would the looping cause any bad pressure build up etc ?

stranger12 Community Regular

stranger12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok when people say block it then that does no good either as the tank will be pressurised again .

can tank pressure explode the tank or will it make the fuel cap opening harder ? or perhaps it passes through the cap when pressure is very high

which one is the return , the driver side or passenger side pipe ?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Remove fuel tank.

Can't pressurise what isn't there. Science.

I like your thinking. It's probably even better than my recent idea which was to drill holes in the tank. Lets it breathe and reduces weight. But your weight reduction is > mine, so your idea is clearly better. Plus, more room in the rear end!

Edited by GTSBoy
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Not meaning to run on about this or anything here. I spent some time looking at fuel cell venting. Not trying to go off topic here, but all principles can be used here.

Most drag racing set up calls for a roll over valve and NHRA require to loops in the vent hose. Then they vent it out the trunks floor or where ever some use a filter at the end. This is straight to atmosphere. Is there anyway i can set my syatem up to burn this up. Like the original system. Seems like ill have to make some sort of evap system to do this. Or is it normal for these guys to just vent it outside. ??

From what i see the roll over vent is just a ball thats stops the fuel from just pooring out when upside down via the vent line, but gas vapors will still get into the atmosphere. Damn i got rid of all my carbon canister stuff:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Shoota_77
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • r32-25t
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By r32-25t · Posted

      At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...