Jump to content
SAU Community

Carbon Canister Removal And Engine Vacume

stranger12
 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Well still no answer to my question and bunch of advise:)

What i asked was is it ok that i have not vented the fume to air and back to the tank by creating a loop and no one seems to know!

You modified it, why don't you tell us...

You obviously did it for a reason, but without seeing exactly what lines you have changed and where they are plumbed I can't help you, neither can anyone else. It's bad enough tracing the stock hoses around the engine bay.

If you don't want the charcoal canister in there, I would be just blocking all the hoses, not looping anything. You will get arse raped if you get done for this on the road, I hope you understand.

Understand. Mixed the two up. ^_^

How do drag cars deal with it using a fuel cell for exsample. On like 100% Of fuel cells have two lower out let and two on the top. How do you control the vacuum that the fuel pump will creat sucking the fuel out.

Ive always wondered about this. Keeping in mind fuel vapors. Im thinking some kind of one way valve. Just a guess though.

Race fuel cells have a rollover protection vent, essentially a one way valve mounted in the top. It allows air in, but no fuel should come out even if you flip the car.

stranger12 Community Regular

stranger12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when you say pressurised, what do you mean ? as not been able to open the fuel cap ?

I have looped it back to the tank so any vapour goes back in to the tank thus no harm to environment opposed to what people accuse me of:)

What I am asking is , is that ok ? would the looping cause any bad pressure build up etc ?

stranger12 Community Regular

stranger12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok when people say block it then that does no good either as the tank will be pressurised again .

can tank pressure explode the tank or will it make the fuel cap opening harder ? or perhaps it passes through the cap when pressure is very high

which one is the return , the driver side or passenger side pipe ?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Remove fuel tank.

Can't pressurise what isn't there. Science.

I like your thinking. It's probably even better than my recent idea which was to drill holes in the tank. Lets it breathe and reduces weight. But your weight reduction is > mine, so your idea is clearly better. Plus, more room in the rear end!

Edited by GTSBoy
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Not meaning to run on about this or anything here. I spent some time looking at fuel cell venting. Not trying to go off topic here, but all principles can be used here.

Most drag racing set up calls for a roll over valve and NHRA require to loops in the vent hose. Then they vent it out the trunks floor or where ever some use a filter at the end. This is straight to atmosphere. Is there anyway i can set my syatem up to burn this up. Like the original system. Seems like ill have to make some sort of evap system to do this. Or is it normal for these guys to just vent it outside. ??

From what i see the roll over vent is just a ball thats stops the fuel from just pooring out when upside down via the vent line, but gas vapors will still get into the atmosphere. Damn i got rid of all my carbon canister stuff:(

  • 9 years later...
silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted
On 6/8/2015 at 11:20 PM, GTSBoy said:

My view? Removing the carbon canister is foolish. The canister is the single most inoffensive emissions control device ever invented. It does a wonderful job of stopping some pretty serious emissions of hydrocarbons to the atmosphere, which is actually a pretty desirable thing. And it does it with essentially NO cost to performance. The amount of room "freed up" by the removal of the canister is almost inconsequential.

Now contrast that with the likely response of a police officer, who, upon lifting your bonnet, looks inside and sees that you have foolishly removed the most obvious piece of emissions gear in the car. He is going to rub his hands together with joy, because anyone silly enough to do that is going to be silly enough to have done other things that he can defect you for. And when he is done defecting you for the dozen or so silly things (think of that stupid atmo BOV as an example) you are going to want to sell the car rather than subject yourself to the pain of trying to put it all back right so it will go over the pits.

Granted, once you put a Link ECU in it then the carbon canister won't work anyway, because this is an R34 and the Neo engine has a tricky little solenoid that is run by the ECU to make the charcoal system work and the Link won't do that and no-one ever thinks about these things....but nevertheless, even a non-functioning carbon canister doesn't look like a removed carbon canister.

Is this true with apexi ecu's as well?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Is this true with apexi ecu's as well?

I presume you mean Power FC. In which case, I don't know. Assuming that the one for an R34 is in fact a proper plug-in, then it should do everything that the stock ECU does. But it is also probably an even money bet that they just gave no f**ks for things like emissions controls and it doesn't work.

But who cares? No-one would install a PFC from scratch in this day and age anyway. Why would you? The stock ECU with a Nistune in it is better.

silviaz Experienced

silviaz

Posted
Posted
5 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

I presume you mean Power FC. In which case, I don't know. Assuming that the one for an R34 is in fact a proper plug-in, then it should do everything that the stock ECU does. But it is also probably an even money bet that they just gave no f**ks for things like emissions controls and it doesn't work.

But who cares? No-one would install a PFC from scratch in this day and age anyway. Why would you? The stock ECU with a Nistune in it is better.

Yep, apexi power fc ecu. Yeah I do wish mine had the nistune, can still plug in the console port if you really want to and read codes. Mine can't do that, so gonna be more expensive to diagnose when shit goes wrong and it will eventually lol. I hope haltech is able to pick up on all these fault codes when I upgrade.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Turn signal wiring question

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • GTSBoy
      Turn signal wiring question

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR 路 Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I鈥檇 finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I鈥檝e owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I鈥檇 love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I鈥檝e explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
脳
脳
  • Create New...