Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just read this thread on wrx.com.au; http://forum.wrx.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=74513

Very interesting read, from the guy that bought a 2 door STi at auction with GX plates, the investigation by the members and the revelation at the end of the thread that the guy wants to sell the car with 100% markup irrespective of its shady past.

A seriously good lesson to be learned;

Dont trust dealers

Do your homework on any car you want to buy

Dont be evil - own up if you make a mistake, dont pass that shit on to somebody else.

Don't trust dealers

Any car plate / compliance / purchase horror stories like this one?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457523-dodgy-plates-on-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

My bro used to own a Swift GTi, great little car... bought it from a mate of mine, who in turn, bought it from a car yard in Bankstown

We were noobs at the time and didn't really look into the history of the car or anything, but on the papers its was a Swift GA, a base model with a three cylinder engine. We thought it was an RTA error and didnt think much of it, until my bro went to trade the car in.

The car yard accepted the trade-in, all went well until a few days later when they called back and said, this is not a proper GTi. It had a totally different VIN on the body, compared to the plate, and was in fact a GA, that was fitted with GTi driveline, interior, bodykit, dash etc. They asked us about who sold the car and eventually traced the whole thing back to the car yard in Bansktown that went "bankrupt" shortly after.

The mate who bought the car from the yard originally, was a noob at the time as well and had no idea what he bought, he actually replaced the Swift with a Corolla GTi that was in a rollover and so badly repaired, all the door seals leaked water when it rained and had bits and pieces from corollas and holden novas used in the repair (slightly different guards, blinkers, lights etc)

Good lesson to check all the numbers and not just assume errors...

  • Like 1

i like how he states he is a private seller, then went on to say "i run a car lot mate, it's my job"

Yep. Total personality backflip;

I'm a naive private buyer with no idea => I'm in the industry and know this stuff.

Amazing.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...