Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just read this thread on wrx.com.au; http://forum.wrx.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=74513

Very interesting read, from the guy that bought a 2 door STi at auction with GX plates, the investigation by the members and the revelation at the end of the thread that the guy wants to sell the car with 100% markup irrespective of its shady past.

A seriously good lesson to be learned;

Dont trust dealers

Do your homework on any car you want to buy

Dont be evil - own up if you make a mistake, dont pass that shit on to somebody else.

Don't trust dealers

Any car plate / compliance / purchase horror stories like this one?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457523-dodgy-plates-on-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

My bro used to own a Swift GTi, great little car... bought it from a mate of mine, who in turn, bought it from a car yard in Bankstown

We were noobs at the time and didn't really look into the history of the car or anything, but on the papers its was a Swift GA, a base model with a three cylinder engine. We thought it was an RTA error and didnt think much of it, until my bro went to trade the car in.

The car yard accepted the trade-in, all went well until a few days later when they called back and said, this is not a proper GTi. It had a totally different VIN on the body, compared to the plate, and was in fact a GA, that was fitted with GTi driveline, interior, bodykit, dash etc. They asked us about who sold the car and eventually traced the whole thing back to the car yard in Bansktown that went "bankrupt" shortly after.

The mate who bought the car from the yard originally, was a noob at the time as well and had no idea what he bought, he actually replaced the Swift with a Corolla GTi that was in a rollover and so badly repaired, all the door seals leaked water when it rained and had bits and pieces from corollas and holden novas used in the repair (slightly different guards, blinkers, lights etc)

Good lesson to check all the numbers and not just assume errors...

  • Like 1
  On 17/06/2015 at 8:02 AM, Stagea97 said:

i like how he states he is a private seller, then went on to say "i run a car lot mate, it's my job"

Yep. Total personality backflip;

I'm a naive private buyer with no idea => I'm in the industry and know this stuff.

Amazing.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...