Budget Rb30 - Neo Head Build Advice

[dave1200]

Yep good call. Thanks for all your help by they way!

[iruvyouskyrine]

No worries. I'm running a 25/30 neo as well so done it all before

[dave1200]

No worries. I'm running a 25/30 neo as well so done it all before

Hey just a quicky - Did you bother adding material to either the head or block to get a better seal on the headgasket around water galleries?

I was overlaying the 2 and there is clearly a mismatch but still some landing that would probably make a seal. I was thinking about just using a little RTV around that area since the rubbery rings in the headgasket in that area won't engage on the head.

I can fairly easily add material to the head and dress it back but if you've got first hand experience of not doing it I could be talked out of the work.

Dave

[iruvyouskyrine]

Nope just slapped it on and away I went. I wouldn't worry about it is I was you. Have never seen an NA skyline have overheating issues.

[dave1200]

nah not worried about overheating. just didn't like the look of the thin landing that's holding the water system. But that's all the encouragement I need.

Cheeres

[iruvyouskyrine]

Ahh okay. Yeah seen plenty of people with 25/30 and never heard of anyone having any issues with it mate. Good luck

[AngryRB]

I might be wrong but when i was comparing headgaskets ( RB30,25 and 26)there was one that seemed thin around a water gallery, i'm going RB26 headgasket, it looked the best fit everywhere..

[steve200b]

I add a bead on one edge of the water gallery on the head and reshape it to suit the 30 head gasket just to increase the sealing surface

[AngryRB]

Your right, they are all thin around the front gallery , probably 2mm which isnt brilliant, someone should add all these fine details into the Guide.. just got the head back from the shop too

[iruvyouskyrine]

Plenty of people run them unmodified with no issue at all.

[Ben C34]

It is in the guide isn't it?

[AngryRB]

http://stevenwelsh.site.net.au/RB30_DOHC.pdf

I didnt see anything about welding beads on the gallery, should make a new guide thats more detailed... old man reckons weld more material so im gonna do that, i know that people get away with it ( i usually dont have that luck and have to do shit twice) but i dont like taking chances, 2mm contact area sounds bit dodgey.. what did you do here Ben? bolt it down or weld extra material??

Edited September 25, 2015 by AngryRB

[Gillyr33gtst]

It's best to weld the gallery saves issues later down the track if you are using nissan gasket even more reason being that it is a graphite composite gasket it will eventually leak

[Ben C34]

I had more material welded, same time as getting the vct welded

[AngryRB]

ok, thanks guys.. i'll just get it welded up and sorted... do it once to it right..

[dave1200]

So after reading this I thought bugger it ill just Weld it up. Decided while I had the tig out I'd just Weld up the oil feed as well since there is zero chance of it ever going back on an rb25 block. I attached some average pics for anyone who may be interested. The old water gallery is a typically contaminated surface so be sure to run plenty of AC balance.

Edited September 29, 2015 by dave1200

[AngryRB]

Looks good, are you doing a rear head drain too? Thinking i'll go rear head drain and maybe some baffles in the sump for good measure..

[dave1200]

Yeah I knocked one up a couple of weeks ago. I'm going to run this hose to the 3/4" BSP fitting in the block since I'm going N/A. Then Vent this tube also up to the catch can (in the bottom also acting like a drain for catch can). I'll plumb the 2 rocker covers to the catch can also then run the catch can breather to the inlet to keep it legal.

[rcs_888]

How did your build go mate? Im doing pretty much the same build rb30 base and neo head

[dave1200]

Hey guys a bit of an update.

I lost a battle with the committee and had to sell my R31. I did however decide to keep building this motor. I found a healthy R31 Rb30 and as of tonight just got the Rb25 head torqued down. I set up all the timing gear and turned up some oil restrictors before cleaning the block and giving it a coat of paint. Here's a couple of pics for anyone who's interested. I've actually set up my gopro to take time lapse photos of the build for shits and giggles which I'll whack up one day if anybody would be interested. A keen eye will spot I have used a block without the machine face where the idler pulley sits. I've made up a 5mm plate to bridge it and machine that amount off the idler to suit. Not ideal but hey we're building a budget setup.

 

Has anybody else noticed when you use the concentric idler in the drive side of the timing gear that you timing marks don't line up perfectly? I have trialed a second tensioner in that place and can dial in the timing marks HOWEVER this makes me nervous in the case that it slips and throws the cam timing out. Thoughts?