How Noticeable Are Turbo Supporting Mods For A 25?

[allsleepnorice]

Ive got a 110% stock 25det and looking to do some basic mods to it. I'm talking your basic FMIC, exhaust, bleed valve (8psi?), SAFC and wideband (cause its an auto S1 stagea so f**k all ECUs work with it). How much power do these things usually add? Is it really noticeable?

I didnt think these sorts of mods do a whole lot but then I watched the mighty car mods video "Turbo supporting mods" and the dude was all like "whoa bruv!" after he did all this stuff. He had an SR20 though.

Cheers guys

EDIT: I did a search and didnt find much so dont rape my ass cause I didnt search

Edited June 17, 2015 by allsleepnorice

[KiwiRS4T]

4.3KW

It varies. You really need something better than a SAFC. An E-Manage would let you vary timing as well as AFRs and with a decent tune could net you a quite noticeable increase. A manual boost T on its own set to 10 psi would probably give you a noticeable increase.

[GTSBoy]

A bloody Nistune is the correct answer for the ECU.

[GH05T]

[zoomzoom]

Ive got a 110% stock 25det and looking to do some basic mods to it. I'm talking your basic FMIC, exhaust, bleed valve (8psi?), SAFC and wideband (cause its an auto S1 stagea so f**k all ECUs work with it)

A standalone ECU running in tandem with the stock ECU can control fuel injection and timing just fine, but it is a major (repeat: major) step to program your own ECU.

[niZmO_Man]

Earth the boost solenoid and enjoy factory goodness until you've saved up enough for a bigger turbo + supporting mods.

[KiwiRS4T]

Auto Series 1 Stageas have a unique ecu which cannot be Nistuned or easily replaced. Something has to be piggy backed whether it is an SAFC, E-Manage or something more expensive. The only satisfactory fix is to go manual but for the OP a modest increase is possible with a Greddy E-Manage.

[allsleepnorice]

A bloody Nistune is the correct answer for the ECU.

See below

Not trollin bruv, just a noob lol

Earth the boost solenoid and enjoy factory goodness until you've saved up enough for a bigger turbo + supporting mods.

already got a switchable (on off) bleed valve running at 10psi, its noticeable down low but just makes more noise once you get past 4k rpm. I figure airflow is being restricted big time hence the thread. Im guessing these mods plus 8psi will make a lot more up top and down low without R&R'ing... but what would I know lol

Auto Series 1 Stageas have a unique ecu which cannot be Nistuned or easily replaced. Something has to be piggy backed whether it is an SAFC, E-Manage or something more expensive. The only satisfactory fix is to go manual but for the OP a modest increase is possible with a Greddy E-Manage.

Thank you! I was going to go SAFC because it looks pretty simple to use, thinking of going E-manage now though. Are they car-specific or is there just one E-manage that does all makes and models?

[scotty nm35]

We have been dealing with these issues in Vic for a long time, a return flow cooler, hypergear highflow in the stock housings and 80mm intake running ethanol gets good results, injectors and fuel pump, Nistune etc should get you to 300kw pretty easily without too many cop hassles.

You will need a Z32 afm and decent 3 inch quiet exhaust too. Keep the stock airbox, they are good for 400+kw and will keep it looking legal.

[GTSBoy]

Auto Series 1 Stageas have a unique ecu which cannot be Nistuned or easily replaced. Something has to be piggy backed whether it is an SAFC, E-Manage or something more expensive. The only satisfactory fix is to go manual but for the OP a modest increase is possible with a Greddy E-Manage.

Ah yes, I forgot about the wrong sexual preferences of S1 Stagea ECUs. A Nistuned R32 ECU (with the new capabilities) might still be a reasonable thing to piggyback. But I agree that there's no real reason to stick with the extra hassle when you could piggyback something else.

[zoomzoom]

A standalone ECU running as a piggyback can work just fine with an S1. Concerns about retarding the ignition on gearchanges (as in, losing that function with an aftermarket ECU), have not amounted to anything with my setup. However that is in conjunction with an MV auto shift kit (which is highly recommended with any ECU, stock or otherwise).

In fact, I much prefer the gearchanges on my car now to almost anything bar a good dual clutch or performance oriented auto. Ive also implemented other tricks like a variable resistor for the line pressure solenoid, controlled by the adaptronic 440.

I think its important to define what youre looking for with mods, because as I said its a major step to go down the programmable ECU route. Especially when you have to start almost from scratch with maps. Goes a fair bit beyond "supporting mods".

[allsleepnorice]

Thanks guys, I think Ill just go with an SAFC or similar because I can switch between tunes and tune myself with a wideband, at least for a fuel economy tune. But anyway, we're getting off topic, as my original question asks, whats sort of difference does the basic bolt on mods make in a 25? Like I said, in an SR20 they apparently make quite a difference, just wondering if the same applies to an RB25 and if experienced folks on here could throw out a low rpm and high rpm power difference estimate?

[niZmO_Man]

Thanks guys, I think Ill just go with an SAFC or similar because I can switch between tunes and tune myself with a wideband, at least for a fuel economy tune. But anyway, we're getting off topic, as my original question asks, whats sort of difference does the basic bolt on mods make in a 25? Like I said, in an SR20 they apparently make quite a difference, just wondering if the same applies to an RB25 and if experienced folks on here could throw out a low rpm and high rpm power difference estimate?

Simlar to SR20, about 10-20kW (maybe more, maybe less) with a tune and a happy dyno.

Earthing the factory boost solenoid will get you 8psi, or replace the waste gate with an RB20 one (10psi).

Look in the RB25 dyno thread, lots of options and results there.

You should be more focused on the drive rather than dyno numbers.