Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys managed to get my hands on one of the above kits for my v35 6mt. i have found topics on this before but just wanted to see anyone out there who has fitted these to their v35/350z in nsw? Im looking at finding a tuner who has vq knowledge or have done a few of these as i want a reliable boosted car. Also wanted to see what power you guys had in these as i know its about anywhere from 230-280rwkw and on what psi? One last thing can anyone recommend good injectors and fuel pump and ecu? Any help would be appreciated and so keen on boosting my car.

280kw will never be reliable unless you run e85. The rods in the VQ35 are very light so you would need forged parts to make it reliable. 280kw is fairly easy out of this kit, it could make 340 or so on ethanol pretty easily.

I can supply injectors and pump cheaper than most if you want a quote.

Ecu wise, Haltech. You can also remap the stock ecu to some extent using Osirus, but the Haltech is the go.

200rwkw at 6psi.

And it not power that kills these motors, it's the huge amount of torque you can generate at low rpms, that stresses and bends/breaks the rods. You need to find a way to limit that.

I experienced full boost at 2200rpm.

Yea ill keep tuning on e85 in mind excuse my knowledge but how safe and is there still a chance the rods will go even though its tuned on e85? Which haltech ecu? i think there's a platinum pro and the elite which the guys at haltech spoke about when i called them today. Alex what figure dod you start off b4 the turbo kit was installed? Im surprised i would have thought at least 240kw? I guess every car/ dybno is different?

how much nm of torque did u end up with?

The kit added roughly 70kw.

Yes, there is absolutely every chance the rods will go on e85. Just accept it as a risk, and if it ventilates itself then build one up.

No torque figure. Can't measure torque accurately on anything but an engine dyno. Too many other factors going on.

Yeah, my power might be a bit low, but it was running the same boost, afr, and ignition timing as a lot of US cars claiming a lot more power. Dynos are different, operators are different, especially those damn Mexican ones hey Scotty :P

  • Like 1

Don't let it deter you like it did Alex though, I have seen what a 280kw 350z goes like at the track, and I would love one.

Just don't stand too close to the engine when it lets go, I still have burnt leg hairs from standing beside a turbo V8 Soarer when it threw a rod on the dyno. Not pretty.

i would be keen for higher power but i dont think i can afford buidling an engine, paying for this turbo build is already enough! say what another $10k to build it no?

i think im going to go 1000cc injectors and fuel pump from deatsch werks as ive heard the walbros are noisy but that could be cause they arent legit, the dw's look good quality imo...a few tuners ive have spoken to are tunehouse in marrickville, toys garage in fairfield, tom at bd4s however he referred me to powertune in wetherill park so did haltech and they also mentioned micks motorsports and i have spoken to crd in croyden and lastly autotech engineering i know have done a few aps kits......any tips and if yas have had work or heard of theirs please chime in.... any feedback as i would like to pick a tuner and get the kit installed as soon as funds are available.

I sell pumps and injectors, but I won't do Deatschworks anymore, too many issues with them. A genuine Walbro through me is $110 (cheap as chips) flows 400kw and should be nearly silent if you don't go bumping the fuel pressure sky high. I run two in my Stagea and can barely hear them. DW are just like every other made in China pump imo.

If you can't afford to build the engine, perhaps a few times, don't chase the power. If it ends in tears you can't blame anyone but yourself at the end of the day. There isn't any warranty in the tuning game and doubling the power of an engine has it's consequences.

  • Like 1

exactly right.mate and thats why i will most likely go conservative tune and be done with it...be happy with anything between 250-280 more than enough for a street car...i will look into the pumps and injectors now im in two minds.. but thanks for the comments boys will keep in touch with the build when it gets started!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...