Jump to content
SAU Community

DR30 bits needed

Doctor 30
 Share

Recommended Posts

Doctor 30 Community Regular

Doctor 30

Posted
Posted

I need the window rubbers where the Bpillar would be if it had one. If you have a dr30 you will know the ones I am talking about.

I need my drive shafts recoed or replaced but the R200 diff apparently hs different splines.

My LSD doesn't limit any slip anymore, It would be nice to know who in melbourne can tighten it up.

I am an extreme tight a s s so Please don't suggest that I fly over to japan to get them.

BTW, Any suggestions for getting cold air under the bonet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45765-dr30-bits-needed/
Share on other sites
rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted

i had to replace my passenger or drivers side???forgot which one 1/4 window seals and had to get them from NZ, i did get both sides though are you after both as i can get you one side? the only luck i had at getting any here was from jaustech in SA but they will only sell the whole window and seal and i'll only tell you the price if you want to ask!! pm me if you want the seal i have.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45765-dr30-bits-needed/#findComment-932108
Share on other sites
NeoLokie Enthusiast

NeoLokie

Posted
Posted
I need the window rubbers where the Bpillar would be if it had one.  If you have a dr30 you will know the ones I am talking about. ..*snip*..

Window rubbers are about $20 each from any nissan dealer, you just have to supply model/chassis numbers and be prepared for plebs who don't know what a dr30 is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45765-dr30-bits-needed/#findComment-941973
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Tekitsune
      Upgrade an rb25neo

      By Tekitsune 路 Posted

      Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana 路 Posted

      Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 馃槄
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu 路 Posted

      BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 馃珷    
    • Yeetus
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By Yeetus 路 Posted

      I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • MBS206
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
脳
脳
  • Create New...