Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, before peoples panties get twisted into oblivion, hear me out. The Hypergear turbo thread currently has 10953 REPLIES and 548 pages and so its a bit much to ask for me to read through them all to find my answer. It would take weeks.

Here it goes.

I have a Rb25det R33 with FMIC, oil cooler, full exhaust and a new highflow Hypergear turbo. I'm later planning to get fuel pump, Z32 AFM and nistune upgrades, but until then I'll be driving it around as is. Im currently on standard boost as Im not sure what's safe to run (and yes, for best results I should take it to a dyno, I know).

My very simple questions for those who have trodden the same path is, what boost can I run this combo of parts SAFELY before I run out of air and or fuel and damage my engine?

Help from those who have done this is much appreciated.

Thanks

you need injectors and afm, nistune are great (we are one of their biggest customers) but not on r33, go powerfc. We pull 2 or 3 nistunes out of r33 a month that have been tuned elsewhere that just dont perform right. The dont work properley as you have to retro fit another ecu from R32 or Z32 into the r33, there are certain background trims that can play havoc that are not adjustable.

Nistune is the worst thing you could do. I've run out of fingers to count the number of 33's in the pits not working because of 'something' wrong with the car running nistune.

I's get a pfc asap and get it tuned. It's not if, but when the engine will let go when it's underload and on boost.

I know someone that's running one on 12psi and pulling hard too, no problems but don't know how long that will last, yes I know pretty silly and ive told them too, it has a mines ecu which is probably running very rich, its a rocket though!!

Edited by AngryRB

So Status, Power FC would be the best for an R33? As its a street car keeping everything working smoothly for day to day use would be my priority, with a good, safe tune being a very close second.

I knew that R33s required a different approach with nistune, but if its going to be an unreliable solution, then sure, best to avoid.

The turbo has the OEM wastegate still on it and I recon, with what people are saying, I'm going to keep it at stock boost. Damn, my shopping list for parts is growing tho.

Ahh, cars....

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.
  • Like 1

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brandsMelbourne goto see o consider?

I dont think i have received your email.

I can supply adaptronic plug in at a special price if interested. If u r in Melbourne goto see chequred tuning.

Make sure u have fuel mods, 3 inches metal induction pipe, pod, good fmic, 3inches free flow tubo back exhaust and a good clutch before going for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
    • He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛  
×
×
  • Create New...