Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, before peoples panties get twisted into oblivion, hear me out. The Hypergear turbo thread currently has 10953 REPLIES and 548 pages and so its a bit much to ask for me to read through them all to find my answer. It would take weeks.

Here it goes.

I have a Rb25det R33 with FMIC, oil cooler, full exhaust and a new highflow Hypergear turbo. I'm later planning to get fuel pump, Z32 AFM and nistune upgrades, but until then I'll be driving it around as is. Im currently on standard boost as Im not sure what's safe to run (and yes, for best results I should take it to a dyno, I know).

My very simple questions for those who have trodden the same path is, what boost can I run this combo of parts SAFELY before I run out of air and or fuel and damage my engine?

Help from those who have done this is much appreciated.

Thanks

you need injectors and afm, nistune are great (we are one of their biggest customers) but not on r33, go powerfc. We pull 2 or 3 nistunes out of r33 a month that have been tuned elsewhere that just dont perform right. The dont work properley as you have to retro fit another ecu from R32 or Z32 into the r33, there are certain background trims that can play havoc that are not adjustable.

Nistune is the worst thing you could do. I've run out of fingers to count the number of 33's in the pits not working because of 'something' wrong with the car running nistune.

I's get a pfc asap and get it tuned. It's not if, but when the engine will let go when it's underload and on boost.

I know someone that's running one on 12psi and pulling hard too, no problems but don't know how long that will last, yes I know pretty silly and ive told them too, it has a mines ecu which is probably running very rich, its a rocket though!!

Edited by AngryRB

So Status, Power FC would be the best for an R33? As its a street car keeping everything working smoothly for day to day use would be my priority, with a good, safe tune being a very close second.

I knew that R33s required a different approach with nistune, but if its going to be an unreliable solution, then sure, best to avoid.

The turbo has the OEM wastegate still on it and I recon, with what people are saying, I'm going to keep it at stock boost. Damn, my shopping list for parts is growing tho.

Ahh, cars....

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

  On 22/06/2015 at 8:10 AM, Blackkers said:

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.
  • Like 1
  On 22/06/2015 at 8:14 AM, Ben C34 said:

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.

still buggy.

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

  On 28/06/2015 at 1:27 AM, ausdrift said:

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brandsMelbourne goto see o consider?

I dont think i have received your email.

I can supply adaptronic plug in at a special price if interested. If u r in Melbourne goto see chequred tuning.

Make sure u have fuel mods, 3 inches metal induction pipe, pod, good fmic, 3inches free flow tubo back exhaust and a good clutch before going for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...