2007 370gt And 2008 G37 Infiniti?

[Nod089]

Here is one of 'them' questions.

You know the ones... The ones where the keyboard warriors come on here abusing the thread creator, telling them to 'do their research'.

BUT

I HAVE done my research, and I genuinely cannot find the answer to my question.

I'm assuming these vehicles are the same, and that the G37 was just made 08?

But I want to make sure, so that I don't make a mistake in the future. See, I'm finding lots of great things from America for my car, but they are ALL for 08+ G37's... Will these all fit a 2007 370GT Type S?

Thanks so much to those willing to assist me.

[colin.ssc]

By 2007 370GT I assume you have a coupe? Then yes those will fit.

V36 platform consists of 2006-2008 V36 350GT / Infiniti 2007-2008 G35S (Sedan)

2009 V36 370GT Sedan / Infiniti G37 Sedans

Coupes were 2007 to present.

Theres a facelift or two in 2009 and 2010 where the front bumper and grille was changed.

Performance mods are mostly the same throughout, just check for engine compatibility....

Aesthetic mods, anything front bumper and attachments you'll need to really careful as there was facelifts and etc. Interior changed as well in some areas. Back bumper etc remained the same.

Suspension and brakes all the same.

I'm sure there's things I missed out but someone else can chime in.

[Nod089]

By 2007 370GT I assume you have a coupe? Then yes those will fit.

V36 platform consists of 2006-2008 V36 350GT / Infiniti 2007-2008 G35S (Sedan)

2009 V36 370GT Sedan / Infiniti G37 Sedans

Coupes were 2007 to present.

Theres a facelift or two in 2009 and 2010 where the front bumper and grille was changed.

Performance mods are mostly the same throughout, just check for engine compatibility....

Aesthetic mods, anything front bumper and attachments you'll need to really careful as there was facelifts and etc. Interior changed as well in some areas. Back bumper etc remained the same.

Suspension and brakes all the same.

I'm sure there's things I missed out but someone else can chime in.

Yes it's a coupe

That's awesome!

Thanks so much for your time Colin..

Now the search begins...

Edited June 22, 2015 by Nod089

[Nightcrawler]

There are subtle wiring differences from time to time between USA and Jp built cars too, so anything electrical you have to be quite careful of.

Also remember in your search for parts in the USA, that if you go over A$1,000 declared value in parts in one shipment you cop duty + gst, and if it is anything big you often cop transit/holding/quarantine costs on top (especially if/when you have to employ a customs broker to clear your goods, as I did). If you under-declare the value of goods and they catch you there are significant fines and trouble (for both you and the seller who intentionally mis-declared the value), so much so that many USA vendors will now NOT mis-declare value to save you import duties, but use the retail invoice as the declared value.

Also, I have heard of people being slugged duty + gst if the combined total of declared value of the goods plus the cost of shipping goes over $1k, but this is not supposed to be the rule.

[mycarhasposessedme]

Headlights are another thing to be careful of due to being Left Hand Drive.

There also seems to be a lot of fairly gimmicky crap for sale in the US too, so it pays to do a bit of research.

[Nod089]

I'm thinking simple stuff like CAI/Strut Bar..

Nothing major at all, I absolutely love the look of them as they are.

[Guest]

I'm thinking simple stuff like CAI/Strut Bar..

Nothing major at all, I absolutely love the look of them as they are.

CAI for induction sound, or chasing more power?

[colin.ssc]

For CAI just do some research on myg37 or z forums. There were a few comprehensive tests done and only a few gave power while others made some losses. If you're just after noise then you're all good to go.

Edited June 22, 2015 by colin.ssc

[The Max]

Here is one of 'them' questions.

You know the ones... The ones where the keyboard warriors come on here abusing the thread creator, telling them to 'do their research'.

Off to a great start there. There's no need to be that defensive. People here are wise enough to know when someone has actually tried to search for their answers, particularly when it's a common question. Anyway...

There are subtle wiring differences from time to time between USA and Jp built cars too, so anything electrical you have to be quite careful of.

Also, I have heard of people being slugged duty + gst if the combined total of declared value of the goods plus the cost of shipping goes over $1k, but this is not supposed to be the rule.

Definitely agree on the electrical stuff. While I found plenty of similarities between my '09 JDM coupe and the '10 USDM coupe to get me through my audio system upgrade, there were also other significant differences such as the BCM pin 39 not responding to the lock/unlock signal from my car alarm as intended by the DEI XpressKit DB-ALL bypass module. Definitely find out as much as you can about any electrical bits before you go buying them to avoid disappointment.

As for the rule about GST and customs duties, I've always been told by customs that it does include the cost of shipping. I thought it was quite retarded myself but wherever I have been taxed, it has always been for the goods plus shipping charges.

[Nod089]

CAI for induction sound, or chasing more power?

Definitely power! [emoji7]

[Nightcrawler]

CAIs have been proven not to add any power. If they do add a tiny bit of power in one area of the rev range, it will lose power in another. Just get some high flow panel filters (HKS or similar) and that is all you need.

[Nod089]

CAIs have been proven not to add any power. If they do add a tiny bit of power in one area of the rev range, it will lose power in another. Just get some high flow panel filters (HKS or similar) and that is all you need.

Thanks for the info

Do the panel filters do anything? Power/Sound?

[Guest]

Thanks for the info

Do the panel filters do anything? Power/Sound?

Honestly, stock as a rock with these engines (VQ35HR and VQ37VHR) is perfect. If you're chasing more power, I'd look at a different car... and that's coming from someone who *LOVES* V36 Skylines.

Unless you have $10k - $15k approx for parts + labour and choose to go down the forced induction path... My thoughts are, appreciate the performance you already have

Toyota JZX110 Mark II's are an awesome start if you're chasing power - but love the idea of having a GT / Sports Sedan. Just my 2c

Edited June 23, 2015 by Sikahalv

[mkn23]

from what i've read, there's not too much to gain with performance mods except maybe a tune for better driveability

which i plan on doing but to make the most of the tune i'm gonna whack on some breather mods (mostly for sound and personal taste, partially for power)

just my 2 cents

[Nightcrawler]

When I did the mods on my 35 coupe the power went from around 140rwkw stock to 183rwkw. You can most certainly notice the increased power, but obviously on a bang per buck basis it is expensive.

After my somewhat rocky and expensive experience I only recommend doing :

- HKS/high flow panel filters (which do add a little bit of power - especially if you do the exhaust too - increased air in/out with some tuning always adds power)

- high flow cats, delete mid-pipe resonators, keep stock rear muffler. If you are concerned about increased noise, add an Apexi exhaust control valve. Or get Varex rear mufflers which can be adjusted for flow/noise

- an Apexi AFC Neo and get it tuned.

Pretty much everything else is just window dressing (unless you go FI like George said).

IMHO if you don't have Brembos, acquire some (or Akebonos) - these are heavy cars and if you do frequent spirited driving you WILL run out of brakes. Decent pads and bleeding some dot6.1 fluid in helps in this as well if you can't afford Brembos straight away.

Like many people have said, these are pretty brilliant cars from stock. If you want a bit of improvement, do as I suggest above. If you want REAL power, pony up the $20k or so to do forced induction properly (which also involves opening your engine to install new rods at a minimum), or buy a car that actually has REAL power like a GTR. Our cars are luxury cruisers with a bit of ooomph. That is about it.

[Guest]

Like many people have said, these are pretty brilliant cars from stock. If you want a bit of improvement, do as I suggest above. If you want REAL power, pony up the $20k or so to do forced induction properly (which also involves opening your engine to install new rods at a minimum), or buy a car that actually has REAL power like a GTR. Our cars are luxury cruisers with a bit of ooomph. That is about it.

Does 'Grand Tourer' / 'Gran Turismo' sum up our cars perfectly Andrew?

Edited June 24, 2015 by Sikahalv

[The Max]

More like "Suspended License Cruiser".

Yep, definitely Grand Tourer.

[Nod089]

Honestly, stock as a rock with these engines (VQ35HR and VQ37VHR) is perfect. If you're chasing more power, I'd look at a different car... and that's coming from someone who *LOVES* V36 Skylines. [/b]

Don't get me wrong, the power is more than enough for me. I absolutely love the 370... Was just thinking for a few hundred, if it was going to add to the experience I might as well do it. Not interested in the turbo/super path... If I was, I would've bought another car with forced induction Edited June 24, 2015 by Nod089

[Nod089]

Does 'Grand Tourer' / 'Gran Turismo' sum up our cars perfectly Andrew?

That's odd... I thought the GT stood for Good Taste?

[mycarhasposessedme]

Like most things it really depends your personal expectations for your car.

There are many things that can make a car faster oven a given area of road, assuming that is, that the road is not just a short straight.

Straight line acceleration is already pretty well optimised from the factory, so power mods, other than forced induction, return a pretty low bang for your buck & for me quite honestly are not a priority.

This really only leaves handling & braking, which in my opinion can be greatly improved which in turn will make your car faster.

My personal criteria for the mods I have done revolve around the fact that every 6 weeks or so, I do a 6 hour each way trip to Central West NSW, to visit my ailing parents in-law.

I have to be able to do this as quickly, safely & comfortably as possible, in all weather & road conditions.

For my purpose, a stock 370gt coupe was quite a good fit, but there was also room for improvement.

The handling was reasonable, but to me seemed aimed more toward the luxury side than sport. Personally, it felt unsettled at speed & a bit doughy through the corners.

It really didn't inspire confidence to push the car any harder, & when I did the VDC would drive me up the wall. The temporary fix for this was to continually drive with the VDC off.

Braking performance (my coupe is an sp & has the Akebono Brakes) was also quite good under normal driving conditions, but when pushed harder did loose some feel, not to the point where it was uncomfortable, but you could feel a loss of performance.

After all she's no light weight.

The tyres she was wearing when purchased were ok for general street use, but by no means what I consider to be a an excellent all weather high performance road tyre.

I feel the mods I have done, have addressed these issues for me. I'm sure everyone has their own take on their own car & may do things differently due to their particular requirements.

So this is my list of recommendations, if you have similar requirements of your V36 to myself, it may set you on the path.

Firstly Tyres, buy the best tyres you can afford, then spend a bit more, you wont regret it. Tyres tie the whole package together & allow you to get the best from your other mods.

Sway Bars, I now have Whiteline adjustable bars front & rear.

Best bang for your buck for these cars period.

They have transformed the vehicle, the combination of the tyres & bars is absolutely fantastic. The car is now very settled, precise and inspires confidence, it begs to be pushed harder. I have them set soft on the front, medium in the rear which gives good balance with a slight understeer when on the limit.

Front Strut Top Brace.

Not really a necessity but does deliver a slightly crisper turn in, which I like.

Really only noticeable when pushing quite hard.

Brake Pads.

I'm now running Project Mu NS400's, great initial bite, even when cold.

They hold up way better when pushed & are no where near as dusty as oem.

That's about it for now, the drive is much more relaxed, I can leave the VDC on which is really handy particularly for this time of the year when the roads out there can become icy in places.

So, is my car now faster?

In a straight line no, but every where else, absolutely.

For me, I also consider it to be safer due to a higher level of predictability & much more pleasurable to drive.

Win, win, win.

Future mods? Short term, probably rotors & maybe another pad change.

Lowering for me is out of the question, due to varied road conditions.

May also look into some tuneable shocks.

Cheers.