Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No sydney refinery, Import from Singapore , unless some out of Queensland. Will be the tanks at the servos. niZmO_Man, where do you think Mobil fuel comes from ?

In the 10 years of driving I've done, I filled up twice out of necessity with Caltex. Once back when E10 was being pushed, caused my R31 to stall when cold and ran like shit (yes, E10), obviously burned through the fuel. Switched to Mobil (regular 91), no issues. Floated between Mobil and Shell, got extra 50km from a tank of 50L from Mobil lol (highway driving SW Sydney to Kiama and back). Even tried Mobil E10, same performance as regular but slightly less mileage.

Seat of pants (no knock sensor readings or anything), my cars always liked Mobil fuels. BP is fine but usually more expensive, so don't bother. Plus Mobil is closest to where I lived (and live), and either on par or cheaper than Caltex. Win win.

Brother's experience: Holden Cruze 1.4 turbo 6spd auto, Caltex E10 to Mobil E10, Mobil got extra 20-30km from his normal driving and 'ran better'. Same shit on 2014 Corolla 1.8L 4spd auto.

I've also advised a handful of non-car friends to switch away from Caltex, but they were too random with filling up 'whatever unleaded fuel' they could find. I did have one comment that switching away from Woolworths led to small but noticeable increase in performance but mileage was the same.

But who cares about real world experiences right?

Mobil fuel comes from the same place as the other brands, out of the ground. What's your point? They use the same depot? They're all the same fuel?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457776-m4-bad-fuel/#findComment-7556223
Share on other sites

Depends what state you are in which refinery it comes from. Since there are no operating refineries in NSW most fuel is imported from Singapore or a small amount comes from Brisbane. Shell is imported , though a small amount comes from Victoria. BP refinery in Brisbane is shutting down soon . So what I am saying is the vast majority of finished product is imported . There is some refinery interchange between companies . Also all fuel has a set of govt regulations to stick to. RON +/- .5 of a number . Yes some do have additives . You also have differing fuel between company owned or woolies / coles. etc .

To say one is rubbish and others are not, is just anecdotal , Depends on where it was sourced, how long it was in transit, how long has it been sitting in tanks etc

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457776-m4-bad-fuel/#findComment-7556280
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
×
×
  • Create New...