Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mine didn't.

Ran fine until I spun bearings.

and I'll be looking at better quality than a bunnigs washer.

going to the local bolt master to see if the have any high tensile washers in double thickness.

Seems odd how some people have this issue and others don't. Any idea if your block came from an R31 or a VL?

thought about this.

Depending on block machining, head machining, and gasket thickness used, will depend if they just clear, or just foul.

the more you skim off, and thinner the gasket, the more likely to need the extra washer.

  • Like 1

Seems odd how some people have this issue and others don't. Any idea if your block came from an R31 or a VL?

I have a r31 series 3 block and had 2mm skimmed of the 25 head and using 1 washer holding 21psi with no issue

  • 4 weeks later...

Thought I would report back guys in-case this help anyone else out. I ended up running dual washers, standard 26 washers plus the ARP washers. Standard OEM 26 head gasket, and went another 15 ft/lb over on the torque. So far it's done 2 track days and a few runs here and there, no signs of pushing coolant and comp/leak down test done the other day was all good. Holding about 26psi fine.

Big thanks to all those that commented, and especially those that hinted about the dual washers.

Cheers.

  • Like 1

How come u didnt use a multi layer steel gasket mate?

I was concerned that the block face may have been out slightly, as I wasn't sure the washers would be the fix at the time, hence I decided to go composite thinking I would have better success that way if the block was out . That and other people have reported pretty good success with them after only doing ARP studs on standard NEO's and the like, similar boost to what I am running.

I suppose time will tell if that was a bad decision, I did work it hard at both track days but with only about 5 mins rest time at each event.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...