Jump to content
SAU Community

Central Locking

kiwi_rock
 Share

Recommended Posts

kiwi_rock Rookie

kiwi_rock

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys. I wan to install a new aftermarket keyless entry system with some new features. I've remove the old wireless receiver behind the glove box and I've traced all the doors except the drivers door back to the main two wires by the smart entry/central locking module on the drivera side. It's all normally ground and connects possitive to the side required for lock or unlock. This is easy to wire up however the drivers actuator is only a 4 not 5 wire actuator. One of which is ground another one with a constant 12v. The other two I think are the key possition switch outputs. When I lock or unlock the ground and 12v wire doesn't change polarity in the drivers door like the rest. I'm a bit confused to how the drivers door can be actuated. I'm happy to for go central locking for just keyless entry central locking however the drivers door actuator has me stumped as for it's wiring. I don't plan on ever putting the factory keyless back in so I'm looking for ideas on how the drivers door actuator wiring works. Cheers.

Edited by kiwi_rock
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457929-central-locking/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      S15 Spec R

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • trey318
      r34 gtt led globes

      By trey318 · Posted

      Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • KyoyaR33
      Rebuilt Rb25det issues

      By KyoyaR33 · Posted

      Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
    • GTSBoy
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • GTSBoy
      My R32 Money Pit & The Headaches That Come With It

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
×
×
  • Create New...