Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there

Have owned my R32 for about 5 years now, never had any issues with the 4wd light, however the last few weeks it's suddenly started coming on when I pull in and out of driveways ? Turn the car off then back on and all is fine, doesn't come on when I stop at lights or drive on bumpy roads etc.

Checked the error code and I had 8 flashes which is the ABS issue, however the car has had it's ABS disabled since well before I owned it.

Also to note is about 6 weeks ago I had all fluids / oils etc changed in car, tacho was replaced as the previous one died.

So main question is has anyone had this issue before ? And if so what was the solution ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457951-r32-attesa-issue/
Share on other sites

Toothbrush and degreaser, hands and knees and/or garage creeper. Clean the wheel speed sensors and code wheels. See if that helps. Also look for broken/dodgy wiring to the sensors.

Toothbrush and degreaser,

Hands and knees/or garage creeper,

Doing it yourself will work cheaper.

Look for broken stuff with your peepers.

Seriously surprised I had to rewrite that for you.

Do you have something that will read the output of the sensors other than the attessa computer?

Not too sure to be honest, the ABS was removed before I brought the car, it has a power FC but I'm guessing that wouldn't do too much. Just seems weird it only happens when going real slow into driveways. The front torque gauge on the dash maxes out and just stays there until I turn the car off

I don't think you could properly check the sensors with a meter. They do output pulsed voltage as the code wheel passes, but you'd be better off with a portable oscilloscope to see the waveform looks right.

Yeh no dramas, might start off by giving underneath a clean and see how that goes, thanks for all the suggestions.

Cheers

I don't think you could properly check the sensors with a meter. They do output pulsed voltage as the code wheel passes, but you'd be better off with a portable oscilloscope to see the waveform looks right.

Youre not really trying to read the waveforn, merely to see if the sensor is dead or not. You have four and need to figure out which one is the problem. Does the error code tell you which corner is stuffed?

Youre not really trying to read the waveforn, merely to see if the sensor is dead or not. You have four and need to figure out which one is the problem. Does the error code tell you which corner is stuffed?

I agree. But digital multimeters are usually too slow to react to fast changing signals to be able to pick out a sensor which is bad, but not completely dead, if you know what I mean.

Mine does the same thing,except when i do a full on launch,but only every now and then.Same code as you and my car has never had abs from factory.Ive cleaned all the sensors and checked the wiring but still does it occasionally.The gauge freaks out too when it happens so i think its the G sensor.Ive purchased an ETS PRO controller so we will see if this fixers it

The abs and the attessa are only linked in the sense that they are triggered from the same sensors. So whether or not you have abs doesnt change the sensors if I understand it correctly. The sensors feed the AWD system and the abs.

The gauge properly goes ape because it thinks you have no wheel speed from one corner and does what it thinks it needs to do to fix it. Which is presumably max front torque?

Anyway fingers crossed it is only a wet and or dislodged sensor.

Mine does the same thing,except when i do a full on launch,but only every now and then.Same code as you and my car has never had abs from factory.Ive cleaned all the sensors and checked the wiring but still does it occasionally.The gauge freaks out too when it happens so i think its the G sensor.Ive purchased an ETS PRO controller so we will see if this fixers it

Yeh let me know how you go with the controller, mine has a torque split controller but I have always just had it set to the factory 4wd setting.

Thinking that perhaps when underneath was all degreased etc that something was maybe dislodged or some crap has gone over some of the sensors. Right now it's not a massive issue just more annoying than anything else.

Cheers

The abs and the attessa are only linked in the sense that they are triggered from the same sensors. So whether or not you have abs doesnt change the sensors if I understand it correctly. The sensors feed the AWD system and the abs.

The gauge properly goes ape because it thinks you have no wheel speed from one corner and does what it thinks it needs to do to fix it. Which is presumably max front torque?

Anyway fingers crossed it is only a wet and or dislodged sensor.

That makes sense too, might try jump under the car this arvo and have a look. Thanks mate

Update: jumped under the car and gave the speed sensors a quick clean this arvo with a toothbrush and a bit of cloth.

Reversed the car out of the garage down driveway onto the street and bam 4wd light comes on (but torque needle didn't budge on dash) did the usual and turned the car off and on, took it for a quick spin around the block for a few min, pulled back into driveway...and surprisingly no 4wd light came on.

So not sure if the issue is sorted yet but fingers crossed :)

Edited by Sunny_Coast32

My one randomly craps out as well. Sensor said right wheel speed sensor. Looks like I'll have to drop the diff to change it, so just put up with it for now lol.

Yeah I can't imagine you would be able to change the speed sensors without removing the diff ?

It's just more of an annoyance to be honest, but I'll see how it goes when I get a chance to take it for a drive again.

Sometimes when the 4wd light comes on randomly it can be the Attessa Accumulator above the rear diff (Nitrogen canister).

They are 25yrs old and empty/fail which can cause random issues like yours.

Just a thought as replacing mine made a hell of a difference.

And resolved my issue with the 4wd/abs light randomly coming on which is annoying.

However the major improvement was engaging the 4wd system itself.

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
    • Curious to see how the SpeedTek stuff holds up
    • The holdups last year were drivetrain related. I had the car out right after getting the bearing issue resolved. Third launch and the car didn't move after releasing the clutch. It had sheared all the engagement teeth off the 1st gear.    Thankfully no other damage was done. I set an aftermarket gear beside an OEM gear and found that the engagement teeth on the OEM gear were much larger and better supported. Looking through my bin of spare transmission gears I found that there are two types of tooth on the OEM first gears - the larger tooth and the smaller tooth. It looks like most aftermarket gearset manufacturers base their design on the smaller tooth. OEM large tooth left - Speedtek, OS Giken, etc or OEM small tooth right Decided to give that larger engagement tooth a try. Pressed the ring off an OEM gear and sent it to a transmission manufacturer here in the States. They did their "faceplating" operation with my synchro ring on the Speedtek gear.   I reassembled it, took it back to the track and promptly destroyed the gear itself.  I'll rebuild this and use it as a spare - thankfully just first gear and the countershaft are damaged beyond repair. Definitely disheartening but my welded on engagement tooth ring held up!  Moved to Speedtek's dog engagement design as the gears appear to be much stronger. So far they have taken much more abuse at the track. Also scored a Stillway lockout from the Netherands for super cheap. It's for some other RB transmission so it took a bit of fabrication to fit but honestly a very easy job. I also had to heavily modify the gates as they were very different.   Then for some reason at the last test and tune a silicon coupler below the throttle blew off and took out the radiator and fan. Thankfully it was in the burnout box and not down track. This car is really beating me up - I still haven't made a pass in it. Ran it through the gears many times on the street but it keeps biting me at the track.  Currently in the process of replacing the radiator and remaking the throttle pipe to remove the coupler and use a cast 90 and a vband. I WILL get this thing down the track...
    • Covers most of the above points really. There's a few exceptions but most just see driving as an irritating but necessary task they must complete if they want to get anywhere on time. Also see it as a good time to show their awesome multi-tasking abilities on their mobile and/or doing their makeup.  
    • I don't believe I posted pictures of the second oil pump pickup I added so here they are. Data shows it gets oil pressure up to the relief pressure much earlier in the RPM. Is that important? Not likely... This was just another attempt to fix the bearing issues.   I also heavily opened up the inlet to the pump since it now had to flow oil from two pickups. I believe the diameter increased about 1/8".
×
×
  • Create New...