Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currently running a 48mm progate and since fitting the 6870 it will not hold boost at the track.

It held it on the dyno with slight creep after 6000rpm but at the track I'm hitting boost cut in first no matter how low I set the eboost.

Has anyone done the straight swap for a 50mm? Will it hold it ya reckon?

Or will I have to get a 60mm and do a cut and shut job on the exhaust manifold?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/
Share on other sites

Want it to hold 30psi for 700hp (on dyno we had it set at 28 and it crept late then ignition break down at 7200)but as stated at the track I had it set 20 points lower on the eboost and it still hit 32psi as soon as it could in first gear.

60ft in 1.34. Was like a boost line was off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562021
Share on other sites

Try a much stronger spring first - as near as possible to target boost is better. Set your boost cut a bit higher. Does it overboost in the other gears (apart from 1st)? If you can borrow a 50mm W/G that would be worth a try but if you have to buy one I would go straight to 60mm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562108
Share on other sites

If a boost line was off it may have hit over 60psi, mine did.

Not sure about the gate you have, but Turbosmart had to re-design their spring caps to hold that boost. They made a much taller cap with springs 3 times as long, so the stiffer springs wouldn't limit the travel of the gate.

If you hit the soft limit at the track, that would cause overboosting no matter what the controller was set to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562133
Share on other sites

Interesting Scotty that sounds promising for the 50.

Jet I would just get the 60 but it's a manifold off job, which I will do if I have to but I'm sure ive read plenty of people having success with the 50 so just chasing feedback. So easy to just bolt the 50 on and go racing. 60 is a major for me at the moment.

Thanks for the feedback.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457965-48mm-vs-50mm/#findComment-7562260
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."
    • Save yourself the headache of an alarm. Immobilizer on the signal side of the main EFI relays so it won't start is good enough. DIY killswitch is the same thing except instead of a nice passive system you need to remember to switch it on and off.
    • Yeah, the advent of canbus was supposed to cut down on wiring weight, then some bright marketing wonk says "oh, look at all these wonderful tech gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some arsehole safety legislator says "oh, look at all the wonderful surveillance and tracking gadgets we can cram in here now that we have this wonderous technology" and some dipshit young engineer who has grown up thinking that an extra 500000 lines of code is not a problem because storage is cheap these days says "oh look at all this wonderful shit I can do to one up those dipshit arsholes over at VW" and the Karens of the world all go "oh look at all these fancy things I can do on my screen (so long as I am not driving on a bumpy road wherein touch screens immediately become the single most stupid shit idea ever shoveled into a car) and my 19 zone airconditioning keeps my sweaty fat folds a bit less damp and the windows close themselves because I'm too fat and lazy to wind them up for myself and these reversing sensors would have been great if I'd paid attention to them instead of smashing them on the bollard while I was reversing and staring fixedly forward that day I went to pick up little Charlize from ballet" and the sweaty mongoloids who say "oh this wonderful collision avoidance technology with these 45 excellent radar antennae scattered across the front of my car mean I can tailgate like a methed up tradie at full speed with no fear because the car and the 35 airbags will protect me if it all goes wrong" ...... </shallistopranting?>
    • There's a post from a member (can't recall who), went down the path of a twin scroll G30-660 and it's doing over 300kW+ AND comes on about the same as a high flow RB25DET turbo. Have your cake and eat it too in this case. TBH, if I had a 2nd chance of building my car again (i.e. someone gave me what I wanted for my shit box, but the deal was I had to re-build another R33 and keep the change) I would just pop in a stock NEO motor (with new seals, rod bearings, ARP studs, head gasket, sump, Nitto pump), get a smaller twin scroll turbo, modify the stock low mount (keep the divider in place), and make a solid 300kW on 98RON and call it a day. 
×
×
  • Create New...