What The Hell Is Going On R32

[MJTru]

Ok for.the last few days ive been killing myself trying to find out what the hell is going on. Ill do my best to explain whats going on.

As most may know i just installed a rb26 in my gts4. Before i had a rb26 in it but had an accident and removed the current rb26 at the time d jetro and installed a l jetro rb26.

Whats happening is when i drive for a while the engine dies but dont cut off it just stops making power. It just stops accelerating. But before i xan pull over it goes again and does the same thing. Ill have to pet it home and it goes and comes some time the afm 1 has goes solid black on the power fc and the exhaust temp light comes on. Ive changes the cas sensor and i stalled a new fuel pump. Still no luck. Ive noticed that on boost it goes lean when this happens and it scares me so i ease off the gas. Im really frustrated anf was wondering what you guys think.

Im using a r33 powerfc in a r32 gts4 with rb26 power plant installed.

Tomorrow i will put direct power to fuel pump and try it. After that in stuck as to whats happening.

[scotty nm35]

The AFM pins probably need re-soldering. It's very common on GTR's, at least you can work out which one is faulty from the PFC.

[niZmO_Man]

Isn't D-Jetro AFM-less?

[Hadouken]

He says he has I jetro.

How often does it happen? Try the solder trick. I presume you put it on the dyno after the engine swap?

[MJTru]

Well im not using gtr afm im using 2 r33 s2 afm. Can the same thing happen to those. Ill swap them around and see if the problem moves from afm 1 and go to afm 2 that way ill figure out if its the afm or the wiring.

It takes a little while to happen like 15 minutes of driving. It starts off with a little stumble in acceleration. Then it just cuts right out but the engine never dies. Pull over on the side of the road pull the hood then it revs out. I jump in the car drive and then it happens again. Last night i changed the CAS sensor with no luck as ive had some bad encounters with them being bad before. The only difference from the to motors is now im using the wires for the afm. Im going to also open the loom.for these wires and check see if there melted as they were close to the turbo at one point.

Can bad grounds heat up the power fc and cause this random problem. ??? It gets pretty warm when i felt it yesterday. Whats the normal operating temperature for the unit?

When its all working the cars runs like a champ. And im testing my new blow by setup and would really like to put it through its paces. This problem is just so annoying.

Thanks for any help i can get.

[XGTRX]

The AFM pins probably need re-soldering. It's very common on GTR's, at least you can work out which one is faulty from the PFC.

He says he has I jetro.

How often does it happen? Try the solder trick. I presume you put it on the dyno after the engine swap?

[MJTru]

I will open the top of that one afm and checknit out after this test. I have swapped the afm around to see if the problem will move from the fc commander.

If happens after 15 minutes of driving.

im using the power fc on open loop no oxygen sensors. Would this cause a problem as ive never done that before. ???

[Hadouken]

Have you tuned it?!

Have you done this?!

What do I need to do when changing my Airflow Meter? When you choose another airflow meter to allow a large opening diameter or a higher resolution meter you need to select the unit from the [sETTING], [Airflow] menu and select it from the list. You should do this before you start your engine to prevent really unsafe mixtures and also to prevent stalling/bad idle. Once you have highlighted the correct model you have fitted to the car you can simply press [PREV] on the hand controller and return to normal [MONITOR] and start the car. It should idle OK (well hopefully) however this does not mean it is safe and ready to go. Selecting the correct airflow model simply loads the voltage ramp table into the PowerFC. This tells the PowerFC at what airflow levels the meter is reporing in its voltage range. You should have your AFR's checked with your tuner and a wideband after an airflow meter change to ensure its not too lean or too rich. If you need to drive a fair distance to your tuner or would like to run around for a few days on the new airflow meter without it being retuned/checked then theres a simple procedure you can follow

1. Let engine warm up and idle
2. Give the engine a bit of a rev in neutral and check to see if smoke comes out the exhaust.


3a. If you see *some* black smoke
-> Then its running rich (preferred) and it should be OK to drive around on light/low load, although your fuel economy will probably be terrible.


3b. If you see *lots* of black smoke
-> Then its running very very rich and you'll need to lean it out a bit. You can do this by going into [sETTING], [iGN/INJ] and then on the right hand side you will see INJ correction. You can then slowly change the ADJ value to a negative value in small increments. After a few adjustments give the engine a rev and there should not be as much black smoke. Repeat until there is a little bit but its not *lots* of black smoke.


3c. If you don't see any black smoke
-> Then its running lean or possibly too lean. Do the same procedure (as above) but add more fuel by adding or upping the ADJ value and after a few increments try a free rev. If you get some black smoke then you are starting to richen it up.


4. You should remember this value or write down the correction number used because if you turn the car's power off you must come back to here each time to put the value back in. This is because its only a temporary test mode and it should not be used all the time. You could also give this value to your tuner to give him an idea of how rich its running.

for reference
http://paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#35

[MJTru]

Well thanks for the refresher course. Lol. Thats good for whem first firing up the power fc. Well it so happened to be the 2 relays on the side of the computer. iirc ecc and fuel pump. I replaced them and nothing has happened as yet. The idle was going up and down but that wasnt an issue at the moment i would just relaern the idle when i have everything worked out. A/Fs are all safe at around 16:1 on very light loads and goes up to 13.6 then to 12.1 at WOT. wasnt worried there. I just hooked up my datalogit and saved a few files then reintialized the power fc and the idle is perfect now. I was in the process of tuning it when this problem happened. Happy to have found it. I was going crazy.

Thanks for all the suggestion guys.

[MJTru]

Update i was so wrong the problem was still there. It did turn out to be a afm connection. XGTRX you were right. Sorry i didnt check sooner-_-

This is my problem now at 14psi using this holset hx35 it seems like i ant have enough fuel im giving giving fuel in the power fc even using the injection correction to test and ill max out my injector duty cycle and A/F's are very lean at 16.1 to 17.1. Does this mean my fuel pump isnt up to the task. Im using stock rb26 injectors.

[GTSBoy]

Get a fuel pressure gauge onto it before you run it again. Lean bang bang sucks balls.

[MJTru]

I do have a fuel pressure gauge on it. I have it on the fpr. I have the pressure set to 44 psi. When i was having this power loss problem i changed the pump. Didnt like how it looked to much. I was thinking to reinstall the original one and do a comparison.

Its fine in the midrange of the throttle. But when i go to WOT it starts to go lean.

Having a power fc how do most tuners find out that the fuel pump isnt up to the task.??

And needs to be upgraded.

[Kinkstaah]

Maths, really.

You find out how much power you're making on a dyno, and then you think "Whats more likely?"

Injectors too small?

Fuel pump not up to task?

Upgrade the part which is more likely, or realistically, wildly update both before you upgrade the turbo

[GTSBoy]

I do have a fuel pressure gauge on it. I have it on the fpr.

You need to be able to see it while the engine is under load. It's no use it being on the FPR under the bonnet when you're behind the wheel going "WTF wrong with this POS!?"

[XGTRX]

You can road tune off AFR but you have to tune rich at wot because you can't hear knock. But you really need a good ebc and fuel pressure gauge to look at. And of course the right injectors to start with.

[MJTru]

Thanks XGTRX this car was put together as a junker. So i didnt really spend no big money on it. And im not planning on buy a electrical fuel pressure gauge for this car. But check the amount of liters a minute im getting. iirc i think a rule of thumb is 1 liter a minute will be good for 200hp (flow) so 3.5 should be good for 700hp.

I just finished replacing the pump and went back to the stock rb26 pump at least i know what i have there. I will know if it leans out now and make a comparison.

[MJTru]

Ok its all back together. The original gtr pump is working. I'm having a very rich condition at wot now. Time to tune it out. A wot im at 10.0.