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Turbo Install, Cut Fuel Or Ignition?

re34perGTT
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re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

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Hi all

I'm installing a hks gt-rs turbo on my r34 GTT. Read that I should prime it before I drive and to do that I need to cut the fuel supply or ignition. Could anyone recommend which I should do? Would I just remove a fuse and if so does anyone know which one? Also if anyone has any tips like pouring oil directly into the turbo before etc feel free to share! :)

Cheers

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GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

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Seriously people build engines without worrying about it, within a second or 2 of starting your whole engine gets oil pressure, some just squirt some oil in before fitting the oil line on.

If you want to sit there cranking it, remove the spark plugs to make cranking easy and it automatically kills spark and kicks out any injected fuel out through the plug holes.

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re34perGTT Community Regular

re34perGTT

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Yeah that's what I've read, but I've also read that you could potentially kill a turbo in the first few seconds so I'd rather not risk it

Also I'm running a return flow fmic so there's all the piping above the spark plugs and I'd really like to do that as a last resort considering that'll take an hour or so to remove everything and re torque the plugs along with trying to fit that darn bitch of a pipe back up to the plenum inlet and fmic joint

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Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

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No one has ever killed a turbo with oil starvation at first start up. If that actually happened it would have been a DOA turbo anyway.

When you do an oil change and fit a dry filter the whole engine runs with no oil pressure for 4-6 seconds

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hardsteppa Grand Master

hardsteppa

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I put a capful of oil into the turbo itself once installed (into the oil inlet hole, to be specific, eg don't go pouring it into the compressor outlet), then put on the oilfeed line. I usually change the oil whenever installing a new turbo too, and crank the engine till oil pressure light goes off (if you have an immobiliser fitted you don't need to pull any fuses etc, it already won't start), then start her up. Drive normally till at operating temperature, then turn car off, go inside and play Street Fighter 2 Hyper edition on SNES, and let car cool down completely. My theory on that being let seals/bearings etc reach operating temperature before being subject to excessive load, and then all settle into place as they cool down, after going through a heat cycle. Maybe not needed but I've never had any turbo issues, they have all lasted 30,000 years doing it that way.

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