Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Install, Cut Fuel Or Ignition?


Recommended Posts

Hi all

I'm installing a hks gt-rs turbo on my r34 GTT. Read that I should prime it before I drive and to do that I need to cut the fuel supply or ignition. Could anyone recommend which I should do? Would I just remove a fuse and if so does anyone know which one? Also if anyone has any tips like pouring oil directly into the turbo before etc feel free to share! :)

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously people build engines without worrying about it, within a second or 2 of starting your whole engine gets oil pressure, some just squirt some oil in before fitting the oil line on.

If you want to sit there cranking it, remove the spark plugs to make cranking easy and it automatically kills spark and kicks out any injected fuel out through the plug holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah that's what I've read, but I've also read that you could potentially kill a turbo in the first few seconds so I'd rather not risk it

Also I'm running a return flow fmic so there's all the piping above the spark plugs and I'd really like to do that as a last resort considering that'll take an hour or so to remove everything and re torque the plugs along with trying to fit that darn bitch of a pipe back up to the plenum inlet and fmic joint

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No one has ever killed a turbo with oil starvation at first start up. If that actually happened it would have been a DOA turbo anyway.

When you do an oil change and fit a dry filter the whole engine runs with no oil pressure for 4-6 seconds

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put a capful of oil into the turbo itself once installed (into the oil inlet hole, to be specific, eg don't go pouring it into the compressor outlet), then put on the oilfeed line. I usually change the oil whenever installing a new turbo too, and crank the engine till oil pressure light goes off (if you have an immobiliser fitted you don't need to pull any fuses etc, it already won't start), then start her up. Drive normally till at operating temperature, then turn car off, go inside and play Street Fighter 2 Hyper edition on SNES, and let car cool down completely. My theory on that being let seals/bearings etc reach operating temperature before being subject to excessive load, and then all settle into place as they cool down, after going through a heat cycle. Maybe not needed but I've never had any turbo issues, they have all lasted 30,000 years doing it that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because there is still an engine underneath that turbo. PSI is not a measurement of power, it's a byproduct of resistance. What would be really decent is to have a CFM gauge on the output of a turbo to see how much it's actually pushing. 21psi (as an example) is not the same amount of air at 3000rpm as it is at 7000rpm, even if the boost controller is controlling boost at "21psi". The engine is inhaling and exhaling way more air at 7000 than at 3000, even if it's less efficient.
    • don't want anything more or less, I don't really understand why the torque still goes up to 6000-6500, while the boost peak is around 4000. if it only comes from the cams or from the boost controller etc.  
    • I'm not sure you understand the physics of what you are asking. Can you draw on the dyno graph what you want to have happen? I'm thinking this is a functional impossibility here, unless you chose a turbo literally so laggy that torque is at max at 7000rpm and artificially choked prior to that. Power and Torque are intrinsically linked. Power is just Torque over time. What you're really seeing in the torque graph is "Power per RPM" if that makes any sense whatsoever. You still get more power at 7000rpm than 5000rpm, because it is "power per RPM" and you have more RPM. at 7000 than you do at 5000. You still feel more powerful at 7000rpm. The torque graph will influence the rate of power increase per RPM.
    • Welcome!  If possible,  would live to see some pics. How long was it away getting the work done? Hopefully it feels like a new machine.
    • yes indeed the graphic format makes a visual difference but there is on average 120nm more between 4000 and 6000rpm on the curves it is not nothing. you are right, the cams influence the torque curve. I was able to chat with one of the Hypergear tuners, he confirmed that a boost control allows you to manage the pressure after the spool. the absolute pressure (psi) on the graphics is measured where? It seems that the cams affect the maximum pressure depending on the regime but I may be wrong.   not pleasant to drive before 4000? if we spend our lives between 1000 and 3000 rpm as you say then we might as well just run diesel turbos
×
×
  • Create New...