Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 minute ago, Piggaz said:

Makes the N1 block you had 12 years ago sound cheap now. 🤣

Yep agree. New N1 block is $6k+ now which is a bit of a rip off for what it is.

10 minutes ago, BK said:

Yep agree. New N1 block is $6k+ now which is a bit of a rip off for what it is.

And from what I’ve seen the new n1 blocks aren’t any where near as good as the old ones 

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

And from what I’ve seen the new n1 blocks aren’t any where near as good as the old ones

That's still all hearsay really, I don't think anyone actually knows. Some say better than old N1 because of higher rumored nickel content, blah blah. If the PRP tests on the old N1 are anything to go by it's still not worth it over an 05U.

had arp2000 head studs in it and was torqued down to arp specs 

I know power can cause blocks to crack due to twisting, I’m just not sure if it can cause them to crack where this is 

Yeah I'm not an expert in this sort of issue, best to talk to the engine shop. But I understand if you bottom out a stud in it's hole this could be possible, same if there was some sort of fluid in the bottom of the hole under the stud. 

I would have thought twisting under power issue would show up between cylinders  middle/rear  of the engine...if so time for a shiny purple block brace...

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

Yeah I'm not an expert in this sort of issue, best to talk to the engine shop. But I understand if you bottom out a stud in it's hole this could be possible, same if there was some sort of fluid in the bottom of the hole under the stud. 

I would have thought twisting under power issue would show up between cylinders  middle/rear  of the engine...if so time for a shiny purple block brace...

Me either could have been a number of things including the block just being weak in those areas. At the moment I’m looking into a couple of block options 

19 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Me either could have been a number of things including the block just being weak in those areas. At the moment I’m looking into a couple of block options 

What’s the options you’re looking at?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...