Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You are correct!

I just played around with it myself and it shows the same error. A workaround is to just create your own Generic and apply ignition correct (as in take timing out) when there's a GPS Speed / Drive Train speed difference.

I'll end up trying this out one day as I want traction control.

Your right foot is variable you know, it's not a switch :P

Fwiw any time I've heard of or been involved with using GPS for this kind of thing it's turned out that GPS latency is too bad even it's fast.  Remember the GPS speed is a "in hindsight" measurement, so it basically checks how long it took to cover ground and works out the average speed required to take that long... Which means you'll be going faster than what you've got from the GPS setup.   The results I've seen are as you'd expect, basically it cuts the wrong amount and too late - could argue that the tuning could be tweaked for it but you are actually trying to make decisions based off things which have already happened which is going to be flawed.

With 4wds I think accelerometers or predefined torque profiles for the situation are the less problematic way to go about things like this depending on how precise you want to be.  

On 07/05/2023 at 11:37 AM, SiR_RB said:

Motec

Yep, and wheel speed sensors. This can be made simpler if you are running out of inputs (4xdig inputs required) by running the Bosch Motorsport ABS which will transmit your wheel speeds over CAN. The bad news is you need to convert the rear ABS sensors to work on the hub end of the driveshaft because it's quite fussy about drive shaft wind up. That and the cost of course.....

I'm not familiar with Haltech but from what I've heard they also do a version of torque management which is similar and simpler to setup than the M150 Pro package. Seems to work in drag cars ok.

Edited by Komdotkom
  • Like 1

Wiring, such a joyous part of every build!  She must be getting pretty close now?  It’s at this point I generally decide it’s time to add something else and completely undo everything I’ve done to get to this point…..

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Shoota_77 said:

Wiring, such a joyous part of every build!  She must be getting pretty close now?  It’s at this point I generally decide it’s time to add something else and completely undo everything I’ve done to get to this point…..

That was what I did to get back to this point lol. I think I’ve added everything I can add and now it’s just full steam a head 

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

That was what I did to get back to this point lol. I think I’ve added everything I can add and now it’s just full steam a head 

Oh you'll find something to put it back another month or two!!

 

  • 2 weeks later...

Started getting the wiring inside the car routed and connected and also putting the interior back together. 
 

IMG_8968.thumb.jpeg.82a621d8d31b8496b604188e6ce636fb.jpeg
I decided to fit a key pad to control things like boost level, rolling anti lag and launch control on/off, there will probably be other things I’ll find for the other buttons 

IMG_8969.thumb.jpeg.ed3b255ed504a5cda11762f14a1a341d.jpeg

the interior is now looking more complete then it has in a long time and the gear position, strain gauge and eboost2 now work, I also connected the reverse lights through the pdm and they work when required. The pdm and ecu are both mounted and the can cables are connected back to the ecu 

  • Like 6
  • 3 weeks later...

After spending 3 weeks in Japan I finally came home and got to play with the gtr again, today I wired the 3 pedals to the ecu, wired the power steering pump and set up the over ride button. Also put all the carpet back in place. Finally ready to start putting seats and etc back in 

 

 

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, r32-25t said:

After spending 3 weeks in Japan I finally came home and got to play with the gtr again, today I wired the 3 pedals to the ecu, wired the power steering pump and set up the over ride button. Also put all the carpet back in place. Finally ready to start putting seats and etc back in 

 

IMG_9661.mov 15.44 MB · 1 download  

 

Fancy!

Japan would have been amazing!  I presume you got to do some car stuff?

  • Like 1
18 minutes ago, Shoota_77 said:

Fancy!

Japan would have been amazing!  I presume you got to do some car stuff?

Japan was awesome, such a beautiful country. I went to the Nissan heritage collection. I rented an sti and drove the skyline road in hakone with it which was a lot of fun. Did the usual up garage visit and nismo omori visit as well. Apart from that it was a lot of site seeing and taking in the history of japan 

  • Like 5
10 hours ago, r32-25t said:

Japan was awesome, such a beautiful country. I went to the Nissan heritage collection. I rented an sti and drove the skyline road in hakone with it which was a lot of fun. Did the usual up garage visit and nismo omori visit as well. Apart from that it was a lot of site seeing and taking in the history of japan 

Sounds amazing!  I need to pull my finger out and get there before I get too old and cranky to be effed doing anything!  Just need to convince the wife it won't be ALL car related stuff....  Or go without her of course!

Now, get back to work, you've got a GT-R to finish off and inspire the rest of us (ie me!).

  • Haha 1

IMG_9663.thumb.jpeg.17e189b81a16b5e4e3e9fe7c80dabca8.jpeg

more genuine parts, these hold the base of the rear seat in and due to the seat having come out so many times the old one were pretty ordinary. 
 

IMG_9664.thumb.jpeg.462bbd895d8f2e301a941bb678db1c79.jpeg

and the rear seat is in and it’s really starting to look like a car again 

Due to the fact I’m still running the original dash I thought better add something that quickly tells me the information the ecu has available 

IMG_9673.thumb.jpeg.dd31a4c5d8613fa32d6d0dae2a9dda4e.jpegIMG_9672.thumb.jpeg.0825cf20482d2a4b2d7c184610a100a3.jpeg

I replaced the boost gauge with a haltech can gauge and found a pod that fits it. The readings are all over the place at the moment because the engine bay wiring still isn’t done 

 

  • Like 3

The Haltech CAN gauges are nice, I contemplated installing one when I was running the 3 x centre console gauges. 
but the motec dash kind of eliminates the need for them.
looking good, it’s a good feeling when it’s going back together  

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

The Haltech CAN gauges are nice, I contemplated installing one when I was running the 3 x centre console gauges. 
but the motec dash kind of eliminates the need for them.
looking good, it’s a good feeling when it’s going back together  

I love your dash and if I could convince the mrs to let me spend the money I’d have one without a second thought 

24 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

I love your dash and if I could convince the mrs to let me spend the money I’d have one without a second thought 

Billet blocks, sequential boxes and god knows whatever else, a dash is Fark all 🤣

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...