Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

It’s insurance for the engine and gearbox 🤷‍♂️

That what the haltech gauge and engine protection is for, let’s be real you have have the fanciest dash in the world but it’s not going to help at 8,500 when youre pulling the next gear. 

  • Like 2
22 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

That what the haltech gauge and engine protection is for, let’s be real you have have the fanciest dash in the world but it’s not going to help at 8,500 when youre pulling the next gear. 

So what is the gauge on the A pillar going to tell you? Boost?

  • Like 1

meh, I've got the generic/link version in the stagea, and it is good to be able to see what is happening without a laptop all the time. Still a bit limited, but better than nothin

almost as good as a PowerFC controller from the 90s, without the tuning ability.

Let's be honest PowerFC hand controller is useless, no oil pressure, no oil temp, no AFR, no exhaust pressure, etc.

Shows water temp, battery voltage, AFM voltage, etc. Lol.

 

11 hours ago, Piggaz said:

So what is the gauge on the A pillar going to tell you? Boost?

The main thing I want it to tell me is the oil temperature, I’ve got few pages in it to see other things as well 

  • Like 2

I decided to replace all the door trims and rubbers here’s a few comparisons of new vs old 

IMG_9667.thumb.jpeg.0ed1edb25e1d890698721eee3c32cbd2.jpegIMG_9668.thumb.jpeg.9a4306457eb90751cf440be7698e9dad.jpegIMG_9669.thumb.jpeg.3ad02c397b2d78a71c34b6f25c931774.jpeg

and all of the old bit in a pile 

IMG_9670.thumb.jpeg.fdfca880d59dfcc6a182cd5bb6ae2a19.jpeg

Sometimes you don’t realize how stuffed parts really are until you replace them

  • Like 9
10 hours ago, MBS206 said:

Where did you buy all the rubbers for around the doors etc?

You'll struggle to find them for the R33 shit box.

I bought the last RHS one from them, after only being able to get the LHS off Amayama.

Those pesky Muuurricannnsss have cleaned up the spares.

IMG_9691.thumb.jpeg.1fd0cf09b41cf46ca016d5af557fcd17.jpeg

wiring is finished 

IMG_9696.thumb.jpeg.ddbbc729bf302d43c20a4f38557988a8.jpeg

At the same time the bay got painted I got the purple set of covers stripped and then painted in r33 midnight purple, the photo doesn’t really do it justice

IMG_9697.thumb.jpeg.2ba747ab5feb1b330e38b1f00db4009e.jpegIMG_9698.thumb.jpeg.f908213bb81c865550a3b9e25af9e8d7.jpeg

I didn’t like all one colour look and took the pant off the letters with some wet and dry. Also you can spy the GTRs new home in the background 

 

  • Like 3
3 hours ago, Old man 32 GTR said:

Car is looking mint, at this rate you’ll be finished way before me, so you’ll have to take me for a run in it, I can’t remember what a working GTR is like? Lol 

I was hoping to have it ready for the Bathurst cruise but I think just that went out the window. I’ll do a bit if an update when I can 

On 23/07/2023 at 8:36 AM, Old man 32 GTR said:

Car is looking mint, at this rate you’ll be finished way before me, so you’ll have to take me for a run in it, I can’t remember what a working GTR is like? Lol 

Wait, there are people that own GT-R's that work?  Not a concept i was aware of.....  :)

  • Haha 2

IMG_9699.thumb.jpeg.59ca5d5dd1a1281a73c1a823f28247a7.jpeg

One old and one new cover just to see the difference 

IMG_9701.thumb.jpeg.6c0dafc816b5bbd3977e66b5166596b9.jpeg

More brand new timing cover bolts 

IMG_9702.thumb.jpeg.35bcaab1c89c3847694c32fdda80353c.jpeg

and all the covers on just to see how it looks complete 

i didn’t get photos but after this I fitted the radiator hoses and cooler pipe and then preceded to fill it with coolant 

IMG_9720.thumb.jpeg.f38299b6a7f021186131c6dd281e6228.jpeg
guess I have an issue 😡

  • Sad 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
×
×
  • Create New...