Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR or VG30DETT turbos on RB20DET

Mr GTS4

By Mr GTS4,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr GTS4 Mentor

Mr GTS4

Posted
Posted

just a thought. i know someone was looking at putting two rb20 turbo's on but i thought that it would be interesting to use the turbos off a gtr or a 300zx ( twin turbo version ) using the gtr manifolds put cut and weld the rb20 plate onto it so it will fit the block.

with running two turbo's through one afm, is that going to cause anything to happen?

i would maybe only run about 10 - 14 psi through that but still it would be better mid range and top end.

what is the size difference between the GTR and 300zx turbo's?

any info would be great

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45807-gtr-or-vg30dett-turbos-on-rb20det/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

if you put the gtr cams in, port and polish the intake/exhaust hi flow the vg turbos, it will come full boost at approx 3~35. No probs at all, with power figures from 300hp and up.

Those who say its not worth doing, havent done it, or cannot afford to set it up properly.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted
or cannot afford to set it up properly.

Thats the point, how much does all that cost, plus to get 300rwhp you are borderline on injectors so save all the labout costs of porting / hi-flowing and bolt on a 2530/2535 and have coin left over for injectors or cam wheels :P

...are you running GTR cams in your engine (RB20)?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Its all good, like i have always said they are a $600 throw away engine, and really who would have bought a 170,000km old RB20 for more then $200?

Im only annoyed as im another one that will now be turning my back on the RB20 before i got the Trust setup workign properly, the final hurdle was a good tune (as opposed to the Jap ECU i was running with it) with the cam wheels and cam gears, and the car died 3mtrs fromthe dyno....that annoys me as i suspect the setup would have given me a great 250-260 rwkws with good power from 4000rpm up (it would have been running 1.3bar)

mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

two vg30det turbos/internal gate, walbro pump, gtr cams, gtr injectors, port/polish, exhaust maifold, and we are expecting it to be on boost at 3~35, with 4 at the very very latest. smooth on off bost charateristics. not lag lag boost wall...

Should have engine together very very soon.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

On what engine an RB20? be interesting to see the results, considering that an RB26 is a bigger engine and uses smaller std turbos and doesnt make meaningful boost/power that early, mind you it is a better flowing engine.

Good to see someone trying something different

mtopxsecret6 Experienced

mtopxsecret6

Posted
Posted

rb20 all the way. Are aimed power figure is 400hp atw. With the porting(isnt much clearance for porting compared to the rb20), polishing, and the gtr cams.. will give a greater puff, and longer puff duration. ie, earlier spool up times. Being a ball bearing setup.. hopefully knock 200 rpm off... We are not the first twin turbs rb20, there is another here in brisbane.. but the are using much bigger turbos.. and the characteristics everone are describing is the problems he is having. our misson goal is always, because they say it cannot be done.. means we can do it.

Our other project car is a barina swing. 1.3 liter. ~18~20 sec quater standard car. We told the public of brisbane,this is going to be a 13 sec car when finished. The amount of people who laughed in our faces... all they can do now is just let their jaw drop when they see the car in action down the quarter.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

mtopxsecret6,

Even with bigger cams it isn't going to do a great deal. You still won't get boost coming in how the std small rb20t turbo comes in.

The std rb20 turbo driving up a hill loaded up will make 1 bar by 3000rpm, general driving on a flat road and acceleration in say second will see 1 bar by 3500rpm.

But... You will find out. :P

And 400hp at the wheels.. is that with the VG30DETT turbo's? 2 of them generally only flow enough for around 220rwkw and thats with the bigger valves and much better flowing head than the small toy looking 10c piece valves.

Twin turbo's doesn't mean less lag, it all depends how it is setup.

If you set it up the Supra way then yes but setting it up the GTR generally doesn't yield any improvement compared to a similiar single turbo.

A GT2530 comes in hard at around 3700-4000rpm. They make 220rwkw.

As you can see there is bugger all difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • MBS206
      Can't put strut back

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • GTSBoy
      Can't put strut back

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...