Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been buying heaps from Nissan & NISMO direct in Japan lately for my build. Just seeing if anyone would be interested in a Nissan OEM & NISMO group buy? I've got a long list for myself and have managed to be able to deal direct with Nissan Japan and NISMO. All items are genuine.

Prices are best for decent items such as clusters, console trims, mechanical parts, etc.

THIS IS EOI ONLY. MAY OR MAY NOT GO AHEAD SUBJECT TO INTERESTS, EXCHANGE RATES & FREIGHT. NO LARGE BULKY ITEMS SUCH AS PANELS AND BUMPERS.

For this to start, I require at least 10 people to commit. Please post in the following format:

Car:

Part Description:

P/N: NISSAN/NISMO

QTY:

Example:

Car: SKYLINE R34 GT-R V-SPEC II NUR

Part Description: MFD COVER

P/N: Nissan 68411-AA400

QTY: 1

For multiple Items:

Car: SKYLINE R34 GT-R V-SPEC II NUR

Part Description: MFD COVER

P/N:

1 X Nissan 68411-AA400

1 X NISMO 00000-A0000

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458070-eoi-nissan-oem-nismo-group-buy/
Share on other sites

this might be difficult, but is there a list of major items?

Not exactly sure what people are after and I don't want to spam the Nissan/NISMO staff and make them think I'm only hunting for prices but not buying. But for the sake of ideas, RRP is based of average of Australian Nissan dealers:

R34 GT-T M/T NISMO Cluster - $590 (RRP $800)

RB25 Engine Fans - $130 (RRP $160)

RB25DET Speedo Sensors - $90 (RRP $160)

R32 Speedo cables - $95 (RRP $190)

This GB will be good for mechanical, interior & body parts. Things like seals, gaskets, grommets or hoses won't save much, but should be able to get.

So compared to amayama what's the difference?

I've tried to place orders on items with them before and half the parts came back with NO ETA. Whereas going directly, I was able to source items that Amayama returned with NO ETA. This EOI is just there as an alternative option to Amayama.

Car: SKYLINE R34 GT-R V-SPEC II

Part Description: 2 bar precision boost sensor

P/N: Nissan 25085-RNR45

QTY: 1

Interested, see what price we can get. Thanks Ricky.

I be in for one of these too mate mine only works intermittently

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

I've tried to place orders on items with them before and half the parts came back with NO ETA. Whereas going directly, I was able to source items that Amayama returned with NO ETA. This EOI is just there as an alternative option to Amayama.

You'll find Amayama have a No ETA simply because until someone actually hands over the money they won't go and order it.

Makes logical sense for a part that isn't stocked by them. This just sounds ordering a few items for less than Aus (which you can do from basically any O/S supplier).

And you haven't followed the rules here either as you've provided no ETA, no shipping costs, taxes/duties and all the other stuff that all alter the end/delivered price.

Update the thread as per the GB section rules. They are there for specific reasons, reasons which ensure people actually know what's going on.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Withdrawn from the EOI please

Car: SKYLINE R34 GT-T

Part Description: LSD centre

P/N: Nismo 38420-RSS15-B5

Qty: 1

Thanks for the opportunity.

  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • She swallowed the spider to catch the fly.
    • Half anticipating the next question then: I have two magnets stuck in my oil pan. What should I do? 
    • If it's magnetic what is stopping you from using a magnet on a thin wire from fishing it out?
    • Those 2 solenoids in that assembly I mention, are the PWM solenoids for torque converter lock-up clutch & EPC (line pressure control) ~ when most folks hear of 'solenoid failure', the tendency is to think electrical failure...but fact of the matter is, especially wrt the EPC solenoid (which is moving/running all the time), you can have an electrically 'good' solenoid, that's absolutely broken/worn out mechanically inside...ie; valve plunger return spring rubbing against spring retainer plate, lowering preload pressure.. ...and the solenoid armature extension limit spring wafer with bad wear/broken off petals... ...and if there's ever been any metal flying about, damage to the valve plunger end itself... ...the stuff one never really sees, unless you go the whole 10yards trying to answer the question "why is my line pressure screwy, but TCU isn't flagging any EPC solenoid fault?"...and carefully dissect the solenoid. Worst (and most probable) scenario is when the plate spring petals break off, they get held by the magnetic flux, get mashed up by the armature into little bits, which end up in the space between the armature & shading core bore, and things get stuck or randomly jam up, and your line pressure goes flat and doesn't change...and the TCU never sees it, as it doesn't actively monitor LP... ..then it gets into insidious land, if you end up with lower than expected line pressure...lets say high clutch..and the lower pressure causes it to slip ~ when I say 'slip', think say 2000rpm on the drive plates, and 1800rpm on the driven plates, because the slip is making them under-rotate by 200rpm ; you get all the usual nasties like heat and band/clutch wear, but even if it's only 20rpm slip the same thing happens...and... you'll hardly ever pick this up driving the thing with the torque converter active as it effectively masks these sorts of slippages that are line pressure related ...(the newer TCUs can detect clutch slip rate)...just  FYI as it were...  
    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
×
×
  • Create New...