Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's what's in the FC datalogit manual

E-3-1 Anti lag ☺ (AKA Stutter box, Launch box, Pro start and “Bang bang”) ^

• Spools up your turbo for a quick drag launch o Assuming you will use the standard clutch switch (+ arming switch) ? Cut clutch switch wires

? Connect one wire through an additional (arming) switch from the standard clutch switch to terminal “SW3” on the FC-Box {FC2 FC-Box 4 Switches} Questions? [email protected] 54

FC-Datalogit GTR32/33 DETT User Manual

• The additional switch is used to turn anti lag on and off (arm the system). Mount this within easy reach of your driving position

? Ground the other clutch switch wire

? Check the enable Anti lag Switch (SW3) “check box” to enable Anti lag

? Enter the amount of ignition retard you want in the “IGN Anti lag retard” text box

? Enter the amount of extra fuel you want in the “INJ Anti lag” text box

? Push the “Update” button on FC-Edit

? Turn the ignition key off and then back on

? Arm the system with the additional arming switch

? When the clutch is depressed the FC-Box will retard the ignition and add fuel to the values you have entered in the appropriate text boxes. RPMs will drop so you need to depress the accelerator to compensate. More boost will be created

? When the clutch is released the timing and fuel will return to normal

thaks maximajim,

but i thought "Antilag" which I believe Link ECU's have, is alittle different. I roughly remember reading how bad it is for the turbo life and exhausts.. I think the difference was "AntiLag" is activated straight from idle, where launch control & flat shift are induced by clutch switches, and "maybe - no expert here" are not as harmful as real "AntiLag"?

Say goodbye to your Cat converter and or motor

When you drop spark, raw fuel get's thrown through the exhaust, that pop that you hear when you get back on spark if the fuel igniting in the exhaust.....

When you drop power to your injectors, you drop fuel, big spike of detonation is possible as it leans out.  What if you miss a gear and have to clutch again......

Just a thought.

Yep, but the T-Sport one drops both at the same time. There is still some risk though. I am hoping someone else will give it crack and tell us it's all good :D

thaks maximajim,

but i thought "Antilag" which I believe Link ECU's have, is alittle different. I roughly remember reading how bad it is for the turbo life and exhausts.. I think the difference was "AntiLag" is activated straight from idle, where launch control & flat shift are induced by clutch switches, and "maybe - no expert here" are not as harmful as real "AntiLag"?

Another method of anti-lag hold back the spark until the exhaust stoke to explode through the turbo and out the exhuast. Certainly cat/O2 sensor frying risk there.

The original Anti-lag, ie, Rally bred, actually injected raw fuel into the exhaust housing and also had a spark plug in the exhaust. This kept the turbo spinning, but didn't effect the actual combustion in the engine.

The original Anti-lag, ie, Rally bred, actually injected raw fuel into the exhaust housing and also had a spark plug in the exhaust.  This kept the turbo spinning, but didn't effect the actual combustion in the engine.

Bj,

that sounds about right, from that thread I read from some US forum. I believe the car in question (need to find that mpeg) was a blue 01/02 WRX from Western Australia running a Link ECU with proper AntiLag (eg: from Idle.. the sounds ballastic). BUT, I don't want to confuse that sort of Anti Lag with Flat shifting, or maybe I'm just confusing myself.. :confused:

surely you could just have a switch on the clutch conected to the resistor pack that is only armed after say 50km/h (or maybe arm it only when the revs go above say 6000)

then it just cuts spark when you hit the clutch (might even works as anti lag with all the fuel flowing out the zorst)

im sure its not good for it but seems very simple to do

dont know why you would want it on a road car though

  • 4 months later...

Ok so out of interest, what real world performace gain is anyone getting out of this??? Because I sware if I nail a gear change I dont loss any boost, dont hear the bov go off car keeps going etc. Say if you were that worried about loosing the boost, dont have a BOV??? Wouldnt that basically do the same thing? Im just thinking out loud atm, so dont flame me, just correct me :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...