Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next Financial Yr Forecast (depending on Japanese auction results - depending on supply and demand)(kept at Grade 4B standard):-

* Non V-Spec - down 7%

* V-Spec - down 4%

* M-Spec - static

* V-Spec II - up 2%

* V-Spec II Nur - up 5%

* M-Spec Nur - up 7%

* V-Spec N1 - up 8%

* V-Spec II N1 - up 10%

** 'Tis my own time capsule for observation purposes Lol

*** As cars get older, the spectrum of quality gets wider

**** I hope there's no GFC 2.0 or oil embargo to fark this all up Lol

  • 2 weeks later...

If the fed government changes the import rules later this year I can really see BNR34 and other cars tanking in price. Instead of the 16 year old R34 I guess lot of people will just get the R35 for 50-60K.

  • 4 weeks later...

I'm going nuts over this same issue :wacko: . I miss my GTT too much so I've been looking at a 34GTR vpsec for the last few months.

Last option is to import one.. But as you guys can imagine I'm gettin a lot of resistance from family and friends saying dont spend so much on an old car.

Also I heard rumours about govt dropping import duties since the aus car manufacturers are shutting down their plants.

Will the 34GTRs retain their value? How much should I be spending on a clean one? I'm only lookin at V-spec and above. Preferably blue. :woot:

I know this is a month-old post but I thought I'd share my experience.

I was in the same boat as you, it was really difficult to find the perfect 34 GTR locally. I wanted a V-Spec or better, low km example, and it had to be blue. I gave up looking and contacted Ben over at J-Spec to get the ball rolling on an import. It was a tough decision to make at the time, but looking back it turned out to be 100% the right move. It can be daunting when you have to wait 3 months to take the car home, not to mention having to send tens of thousands of $ overseas, but with a good importer they'll make the process so seamless that you stop worrying pretty quick.

Long story short, I now have an immaculate grade 4.5 Bayside Blue V-Spec, with 37,000 genuine km complete with a full service history (I'm talking every single service sheet since brand new). It cost me around $56,000 landed and complied which I thought was very fair considering I knew of 3 similar examples that sold locally during my wait time for $60,000+.

Big shout out to Top Secret Imports here in Sydney as well, they made an otherwise painful compliance process super bearable. Awesome guys to deal with.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
    • How much does the shifter move when the car is in gear with the engine off? If it is more than about 1cm you need to replace your shifter bush. Your shifts will just get crunchier, not faster, with a short shifter unless you also rebuild the whole box
×
×
  • Create New...