Jump to content
SAU Community

Standard R33 Series II head deck problems

r33skylinegtst

By r33skylinegtst,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

r33skylinegtst Mentor

r33skylinegtst

Posted
Posted

I've got some problems with the standard headdeck on my '96 series II R33... firstly, some CD's will play and some won't...most originals work, but only a select few copied CD's will play... even then most have to be put in three or four times before the player reads them. It usually just spits them back out with no message displayed on the screen.

often it makes very unsettling crunching noises reading some CD's. I'm thinking a dirty laser may be the problem, is it ok to use those cleaning CD's that have a small brush on the track or will this scratch the laser?

I don't exactly have the money to upgrade so i'm stuck with the standard headdeck (which is actually pretty good when it works in my opinion)

The other problem is my rear drivers side speaker makes clicking noises when it hits a low bass note, and this happens even on low volume. I don't think it's anything rattling in the car because when i use the fade and balance controls and don't use that speaker the clicking sound can't be heard. Is there some way to fix this? or is the speaker on it's way out? I checked the boot and i cant see any leads or anything like that making contact with the speaker so i'm not too sure what the problem is.

These are probably stupid questions but i need an answer to them. Thanks!

CNBLOW Community Regular

CNBLOW

Posted
Posted

The speaker sounds like its on its way out...i would be upgrading the pair of speakers...with the cd...i wouldnt advise to use a cd cleaner as they dont clean the laser properly....the best way to do this is to pull the cd apart and clean the laser and also the spindal motor......If ur in melb id be willin to help u out with ur problems

r33skylinegtst Mentor

r33skylinegtst

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nah, Canberra unfortunately. I'm not too good at taking things like that apart so i think i'll leave it. Don't have the money to upgrade stuff, only got the car yesterday... Oh well. Any other ideas? i'll probably take it to a car audio shop and get them to look at the speaker and if need be replace the rears with something cheap. The headdeck has to stay tho.

raz0r$harP.UK Grand Master

raz0r$harP.UK

Posted
Posted

remember the head unit is pretty old, so that may be why it has problems playing burnt cds..which weren't around much in 1996.. same thing happens to old CD player in my friend's car..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...