Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey mate,

I have 19s on mine. They are 245/35/19. They fit fine and are apparently legal size on a 33. I was recommended against 265s since they might be that little bit too wide. The bloke i spoke to about it was not 100%, so they might fit.

Good luck! Let us know how they go...

Hey mate,

I have 19s on mine. They are 245/35/19. They fit fine and are apparently legal size on a 33.  I was recommended against 265s since they might be that little bit too wide. The bloke i spoke to about it was not 100%, so they might fit.

Good luck! Let us know how they go...

Thanks for your help. I don't think it will be the actual rim size but the width might matter since your's are 245's.. what about 265?

oh i have standard shocks so not sure but if anyone else can helpp would be great!

thanks

Thanks for your help. I don't think it will be the actual rim size but the width might matter since your's are 245's.. what about 265?  

oh i have standard shocks so not sure but if anyone else can helpp would be great!

thanks

They are tyre sizes you quoted not wheel sizes they will fit or not fit depending on the offset of your wheels

235 40 18 front 265 35 18 rear fit fine on mine but 255 35 17 on different wheels fouled the rear suspension.....depends entirely on your wheel offset

I am going to be purchasing some wheel and the size are:

Front : 235 35 18

Rear : 265 35 18

Can these wheels fit R33 GTST without rolling the guards?

I've got 18x8s (offset +38) all round with 235/40/18 on the front and 255/35/18 on the rear and everything is a perfect fit. I'm actually a little annoyed that I didnt go the 265s.

i've got 17x10 inch rims at the back and they definitely fit. 17 x 9 inch at the front, also fit no probs. The rear just misses the caliper and also misses the guards. My guards have not been rolled.

As said above, 2xx is the tyre width, not the wheel width. I am currently running stretched 255 rubber at the back. Nice and firm tyre wall

thanks for all the reply and help guys. much appreciated. sorry for my noobness when it

comes to rims. had a look at this site:

http://www.driverstechnology.co.uk/Tyre_si...size_coding.htm

and was wondering wouldn't 265 rear on R33 GTST will scrape the guards? 35 is the profile if i am correct? ;):rofl:

it all depends on offset. You have to find a balance between scraping the brake caliper and the guard. Get one that fits properly, and 265 should fit easily. Like i said, i've got 10 " wheels. If i was not using stretched rubber, who knows what the recommended rubber is, 285? easily fits

legal once/if you get them engineered :D

Depends on the state the car is registered in though... Some allow you two wheel sizes, others only care about offset (and increase/decreasing the track width), etc. Check with your licensing authority.

LW.

thanks for the continual help guys. so I guess the wheels im gettng Front : 235 35 18

Rear : 265 35 18 will fit on a R33 GTST :D

thanks!

We don't seem to be connecting with you??? You STILL have not quoted the offsets on the wheels you'r getting....so....on the info you have actually given us your wheels MAY or MAY NOT fit!!! it depends entirely on what the offsets of those particular wheels are. :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...