Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I don't see any PDF online of this service manual being in OCR, so I'm posting a link of one I made.

OCR makes it so much easier to find things, being able to search the document with Adobe Reader.

(old link removed).

new link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B495mmNsnU6uYzAwLV9fVW9WREk/view?resourcekey=0-Qa9Lfekqc5AnkoecCkM5xg

It's 489 pages long.

Edited by Duncan
OP request to correct link
  • Like 3

This is great.......clarity [OCR working wonders] is way better than the copy I have been using.

Thanks for that, your a legend.

GTofuS-T - time to scrub that sand off your tyres......lol

  • Like 1
  • 6 years later...
  On 22/07/2015 at 3:13 AM, jamesnorman93 said:

Hello all,

I don't see any PDF online of this service manual being in OCR, so I'm posting a link of one I made.

OCR makes it so much easier to find things, being able to search the document with Adobe Reader.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B495mmNsnU6uYzAwLV9fVW9WREk/view?usp=docslist_api

It's 489 pages long.

Expand  

Hmm... I can't seem to edit the original post/link... Please don't click on it! If a Moderator (@phantc_s15?) could update it, that'd be great! :thanks:

Google Drive have done an update and broke the old link. (Apologies to ones who've been trying to get this file the past couple of days!) 😅

 

Below is the latest link to the exact same file:

Nissan Skyline R33 Service Manual_OCR.pdf
I'll also attach the file below as another source of downloading it.

1148653_NissanSkylineR33ServiceManual_OCR.pdfFetching info...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...