Jump to content
SAU Community

Under Bonnet Mats


tridentt150v
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hang in there Hadouken, I'm just waiting on price landed in Australia.........I've contacted the business and am waiting on a price.

Once I get this I will move from an EOI to an actual group buy with firm committments and deposits etc.

tridentt150v - GTst S2, I might get two anyway, put one away for ron??

hadouken - GTR R33

89CAL - Gtst S2 Get another one so x 2

Robzilla - GTR - R32

Ty1 - Gtst S1

kingtube69 - Gtst S2

kila32 - GTR R34

R33 gtrv-spec - GTR R33

When I do order I have asked for shipping and not air frieght to reduce the cost......it will mean a delay in supply but given that the mat doesn't stop you driving your car I think we can all live with that.

I also need to talk to the business about how we go about it - it could be that they will be happy for me to collect the numbers etc and they assume control of the business side - which would be fine as well, I'm def not in it for $$$ only to pay for and get my mat and [corny I know] help others do the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not joking at all tridentt150v

The carbon bonnet also has some sort of matt, just a small one above the turbos.

See attached pic

<script src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/74e632ee/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js" type="text/javascript"> </script>

i'd be a 100% in on one of these if by any chance you can get one??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok not much of an update, Import Monster are still yet to get back to me with a price. They say that the Gtst ones are fine [but didn't offer any more info than that] but they are still waiting on ones for the GTR's.

SCRMER - what model?....R34 GTR?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok not much of an update, Import Monster are still yet to get back to me with a price. They say that the Gtst ones are fine [but didn't offer any more info than that] but they are still waiting on ones for the GTR's.

SCRMER - what model?....R34 GTR?

2000/01 - Vspec II - It's the small mat that sits next to the naca duct on the CF bonnet. The one in the pic that StretchGSK posted

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coincidence or what>>>I thought I'd better update and there was your msg.

Was away last week with work [and in the outback] so I couldn't follow up. I asked the supplier yesterday but as yet haven't received a reply.

Hopefully some time today??? as soon as they reply I'll be on here.

I'm just as keen as you guys.....but I don't want to badger the supplier either so am treading that fine line between keen buyer and serial pest...........lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hot off the press.........reply from Import Monster just now!!!

"Nissan's been closed due to O-Bon week in Japan for the past week or so, so I'm expecting to hear back from them any day now.

R33 Gts25t S1: 65840-15U00
R33 Gts25t S2: 65840-26U00
Looking at about $255 ea for the ones above, based on an order quantity of 6.

Once I've got an idea on the pricing of the GT-R ones, I'll be able to give you a more accurate idea on the breakdown for each."

And that's way better than the $900 I was quoted for one from another business - quantity and surface freight working for us!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...