Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i had my car retuned a few weeks ago and the tuner noticed oil temp was consistantly high.

when it was last tuned and driven oil temp would sit at 80 degrees and now it sits between 90-100 when cruising at 100kph.

before the tune i switched from motul turbolight to penrite racing 10 10w40 and tidied up oil cooler (flipped how i installed it and moved temp sensor in line)

once the car has sat off for 10-15mins oil temp is back to 65-70.

engine:

built rb25 (2000km old, built by red r racing about 4.5 yrs ago) 6boost, gt3076 .82ex, greddy plenum, 1000cc xpurts.

nitto oil pump, rb20 oil block, mocal thermostat oil block (group buy kit), 19row setrab oil cooler (sits behind a opening in front bar), z145a filter

tuner has told me to use a thicker oil to see if that will solve the problem but i can't see how its gone from running normal to hot.

could there be another issue or changing the oil type will make that much difference?

and what oil should i try next? looking at penrite hpr10 10w50 or go back to motul?

What does your water temp do? Does your oil temp go nuts when you push the car hard? What does your oil pressure say at cruise? Always use Motul 10W 30 myself - if nothing else it can stand the heat .

Where have you moved the temp sensor from and too Rob?

The fact that youve played with the oil cooler and temp sensor makes me think either something is not right, or the temp sensor has moved from post cooler to pre-cooler

Sounds like it could be a plumbing problem. At cruise the oil shouldn't be getting hot enough to open the thermostat to send oil to the cooler. How have you got the cooler orientated in relation to the oil lines and are you sure the thermostat is plumbed correctly?

Where have you moved the temp sensor from and too Rob?

The fact that youve played with the oil cooler and temp sensor makes me think either something is not right, or the temp sensor has moved from post cooler to pre-cooler

This

Cal it's in one of the oil lines, just removed some of the adaptors I was using.Will swap it to the other line and see if there is a difference.

Oil cooler is mounted with inlet and outlet facing up. I rotated the oil block 90 degrees so fitting now faces downward and thermostat is horizontal.

Will remove the thermostat and check. Oil is getting to the cooler as it is getting hot.

Edited by robbo_rb180

If it is a temp issue (as opposed to sensor/gauge ect), picking up a bearing can result in high oil temps at low rpm/load.

Post some pic's of the oil cooler set up.

Cheers

J

Edited by XRATED

either would I, but IF he's is getting hotter than usual oil temps- just cruising...

I agree, it's more than likely a gauge/sensor re-location change that is displaying different temps.

I run the same oil (Penrite 10w40) and my oil temps sit at 70-80 when cruising and giving it stick on the road and only hits 90-100 when on the track. This is in Darwin heat too so could be more than likely gauge/sensor

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...