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All parts will be available from 1st August 2015 an can be seen running an working. 1- selling as on lot power fc r33 modle, z32 afm, 850cc denso drop in injectors, 44mm turbonetics wastgate, holset hx35 turbo, pfc hand controller, ebay top mount manifold no cracks and a plumback 3 inch dump pipe to suit a vl but i think r33 run the same shape pipe. The computer is tuned for this setup on a standard rb25 engine no internal mods just a intercooler an a 3inch exhaust on e85 made 305kw on 16 pound an 280kw on 12 pound can provide dyno sheet for proof all u need to do is update ur fuel pump asking $2500 2- custom forward facing plenum started to polish it but gave up will also come with full polished standard botton half of manifold $400 3- r34 rb25 neodet head perfect working order has about 130xxx ks has never over heate or had any issues $450 4- rb25neo det bottem end has blown ringlands has abit of blowby suit rebuild $250 5- extrem ceremic brass button clutch with flywheel rated at 350kw is 8 months old an only seen about 2000ks paid 650 askin $350 6- apexi avcr boost controller full kit ive never got around to install it $200 7- splitfire coils ds001 to suit rb20 rb25s1 an rb26 only 4000ks use perfect condition i bought them new still hav there box an will also come with the coil loom which was bought new at the time i bought the injectors $450 other parts, pink sticker afm 50, r33 s1 tps 1year old $30, r33 oxygen sensor 1 year old $30, vl aluminum rb radiator $100, vl 3inch exhaust $100, r33 rb25 s1 loom modified for vl plugs into factory vl body loom an i think it needed to extra wires added for tacho an permanent power an alternator an started loom for rb25 modified for vl $200, vl mx7 gearbox suit rebuild doesn't grind but needs sycnros an has a wind $50, vl mx7 tailshaft $200 all parts located Guildford nsw but can post some parts

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  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
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