Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bottom line: whatever you do to a 2 litre you can do to a 2.5 and enjoy approximately 20% more of it

There is no replacement for displacement (within reason)

There has been no amazing production engine development for bottom end torque since these engines were created; VVT is as good as it gets for broadening the power band, but that is a mid-top end power increase.

Greg listen to Michael not Frank when your building your engine. I remember when he built it he mentioned there were issues with it that needed addressing

What part do I run factory Leroy?

Also Evo X, short gearing SST, pretty much no lag and always on boost. Pretty much 6th gear at 80km/h

blah_blah, on 15 Oct 2015 - 12:04 PM, said:

Greg listen to Michael not Frank when your building your engine. I remember when he built it he mentioned there were issues with it that needed addressing

What part do I run factory Leroy?

Also Evo X, short gearing SST, pretty much no lag and always on boost. Pretty much 6th gear at 80km/h

I do listen to Michael, who pretty much agrees with anything we've thrown out there. Yes, a GTX3076R in a .82 is small for a 2.8, but it isn't small to the point where you smash an engine to pieces... people run them on Supras. (went bigger anyway)

Birds, on 15 Oct 2015 - 11:55 AM, said:

Is that my dyno plot? In depth research lol

My setup is 16psi throughout, with a laggy IWG highflow inside a Nissan comp cover for stealth. The SR, with what sounds like an over-boosted small turbocharger at 22psi...is not really impressing me. It would be a quick car, but put a smaller EWG turbo on mine that doesn't get choked in the top end...it'll move the graph down 500rpm off the spool and make much the same power as both of us up top, albeit not as stealth.

It is your dyno plot, but this SR is also internally gated, low mounted, stock manifold and bleeding off to about 16psi up top. It is a very similar setup man.

It may have been 2nd gear it decided to slip around on, but it was very much under the (50kmh!) speed limit on a side street, rolling onto boost when it happens, very very very long way from any clutch dumps!

My point was is that "if you have 2.5L you can't ever go back to a 2.0 in an evo or SR" and I reckon nah man, the difference would be miniscule given the cars these engines are put in. I reckon they make more power/torque/whatever per cc than a RB does :P

I do listen to Michael, who pretty much agrees with anything we've thrown out there. Yes, a GTX3076R in a .82 is small for a 2.8, but it isn't small to the point where you smash an engine to pieces... people run them on Supras. (went bigger anyway)

It is your dyno plot, but this SR is also internally gated, low mounted, stock manifold and bleeding off to about 16psi up top. It is a very similar setup man.

It may have been 2nd gear it decided to slip around on, but it was very much under the (50kmh!) speed limit on a side street, rolling onto boost when it happens, very very very long way from any clutch dumps!

My point was is that "if you have 2.5L you can't ever go back to a 2.0 in an evo or SR" and I reckon nah man, the difference would be miniscule given the cars these engines are put in. I reckon they make more power/torque/whatever per cc than a RB does :P

We'll have to agree to disagree...I haven't driven a 2 litre that's wowed me down low and held it through the rev range yet. Evos especially with their weight disadvantage - feel like you have to give them heaps to get them moving, and a Skylines are bad enough for that.

Stock internals (besides springs/retainers) k20 e85 prescision 5831 .63

14psi 300kw

17psi 320kw

Since its 'MURICA take off 5-10% because 'MURICA.

Too bad it wrong wheel drive.

still respectable is it not, inb4 gtfked honda boy

12080330_931001243645927_881850058088859

inb4 someone says that shit will blow up, this pretty much standard for a turbo k20, 400-450kw is when it gets unreliable with stock motors, but still easily achievable :|

No one is talking peak power... Talking about lag/displacement/driveability

Put a big turbo on anything and it will make big power. Just lot of money and go fast bits making it happen

From what i've driven, high comp makes the boost instant, full song around 4k till 8-8.5, which is alright with hondie ratios

Car is 1ton like pulsars, 2L plentyful off boost, gets off line really easy, but then we're drifting off to the silvia vs skyline chassis hear

From what I'm seeing in that graph, definitly not peaky, lots of usable power

Referring to the 300kw one above, is similar set up to mates integra.

Im just bored ok

felt like spamming

f*k yas

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...