Jump to content
SAU Community

Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0


R31Nismoid
 Share

Recommended Posts

12 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

This is actually the plan and what I have recommended to many people in the many years I've had problems actually. I would wager the difference in the tune you (and Hamish) had on 98 and E85 wasn't too major (i.e it probably was not running 12 degrees more timing and 10psi more boost) because the E85 can take it but the rest can't.

I feel if you picked up 80rwkw and 120kw in your top end from just running E85 then more people would run into problems, especially when it looks perfect on a dyno, etc. It may be a bigger issue for people in the future as there's turbos out there in the wild that can handle high pressure (GTX) and big injectors and fuel pumps are easily available. They weren't in the past, there was always some restriction (Z32, PFC, 555's, 040, Highflow) looks different to (MAP, Haltech, 2000's, Walbro 416, GTX)


But like you said, and even I've said that about 320kw is where you want to stay in a RWD Skyline, mainly because after that:
1) Engine rebuild become more likely
2) Grip starts becoming an issue for any kind of road tyre
3) Gearboxes start exploding
4) Clutches and such start becoming scarce, hard to drive, find, etc

I don't think I've really been overly unlucky, I've just done things based on info here, and what should "be fine"... and freely share the info so hopefully others can not have sadness with their own car adventures

The difference between my 98 and E85 tunes was all in the timing, no boost adjustment. The 98 was pinging when we pushed it to 260rwkw so we dialed back to 252. The E85 did 275rwkw safely and the midrange saw 40rwkw gained. The rationale is, why stress the engine and components when you can make it safer than your safe 98 tune was, with heaps better response and power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Birds said:

The difference between my 98 and E85 tunes was all in the timing, no boost adjustment. The 98 was pinging when we pushed it to 260rwkw so we dialed back to 252. The E85 did 275rwkw safely and the midrange saw 40rwkw gained. The rationale is, why stress the engine and components when you can make it safer than your safe 98 tune was, with heaps better response and power.

You *can*

My point was what if you said "We added timing and I made 375rwkw". The fuel will allow this but most likely something else would have stopped you, run out of injectors, fuel pump, AFM maxes out, fear of blowing gearbox, clutch slip, etc.

Its far easier nowadays to have none of the above stop you, and you can go right ahead and make 252kw on 98 due to pinging, and make 375RWKW on E85 because of the fuel, but 'something else' will be the thing that stops you and it won't be pretty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, blah_blah said:

I might add this is on 15 year old rock hard Tein HA's, worn tyres and currently -2.7camber on the rears 

Road surface can make a big difference but I'll believe this when I see it

On 50% 265 AD08Rs 0 degrees superstreets with a KAAZ 1.5 way I couldn't get 2nd to hold 275rwkw on most non-freeway roads

So either something not right with my setup or our power figures aren't matching up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Kinkstaah said:

You *can*

My point was what if you said "We added timing and I made 375rwkw". The fuel will allow this but most likely something else would have stopped you, run out of injectors, fuel pump, AFM maxes out, fear of blowing gearbox, clutch slip, etc.

Its far easier nowadays to have none of the above stop you, and you can go right ahead and make 252kw on 98 due to pinging, and make 375RWKW on E85 because of the fuel, but 'something else' will be the thing that stops you and it won't be pretty.

So my point all along is, forget about your 375rwkw, pick out a small turbo that will produce around 300rwkw on E85 and be happy with that. E85 isn't a permission slip for dyno queens to put their printed charts on their rear parcel shelves, itjust makes good setups even better. I bet most of these high powered E85 setups, yours included, would be horrible to drive on their 98 tunes too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, Birds said:

Road surface can make a big difference but I'll believe this when I see it

On 50% 265 AD08Rs 0 degrees superstreets with a KAAZ 1.5 way I couldn't get 2nd to hold 275rwkw on most non-freeway roads

So either something not right with my setup or our power figures aren't matching up

Happy to go for a highway roll Saturday arvo :)

*Note i may need a few warm up runs due to car cutting out power when cold. *racepace tune*

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Birds said:

So my point all along is, forget about your 375rwkw, pick out a small turbo that will produce around 300rwkw on E85 and be happy with that. E85 isn't a permission slip for dyno queens to put their printed charts on their rear parcel shelves, itjust makes good setups even better. I bet most of these high powered E85 setups, yours included, would be horrible to drive on their 98 tunes too.

My car never actually drove badly in any state of the tune, which is why I post about it, because it can take you by surprise and break in unexpected ways with no warning. you may not have turned it up to 375kw if you could have, but it is becoming easier and easier for people out there to buy 'new' stuff where the difference between 252 being knock limited and 375kw driving perfectly fine on the same hardware is the difference between using united or not.

My plan is actually to do pretty much what you've said though. I want a T4 EFR7163 or 7670 for better manifold and heat flow and all of those good things to aim for more reliableness and eliminate more problem factors. Pretty much the goal is have a setup that some forum junkie would say MATE GOOD FOR 600KW then go and make 300kw on it.

Its also worth noting that my 98 tune which made 320kw through the auto (way less boost, way less timing) had literal 0 problems with WOT grip in any gear, but the auto may have had something to do with it, but that said the auto resulted in more torque earlier so who knows. It may not be directly comparable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

Happy to go for a highway roll Saturday arvo :)

*Note i may need a few warm up runs due to car cutting out power when cold. *racepace tune*

Gf getting makeup done so that might work well...I live pretty close to you now I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Birds said:

Gf getting makeup done so that might work well...I live pretty close to you now I think.

Where abouts you living now Adam?

Just now, UNR33L said:

Racewars, I would come but skylines are too easy to chop 

sticker,220x200-pad,220x200,ffffff.u2.jp

 

Lol Leigh

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once gave the pulsar a good run on fentree gully rd cnr of blackburn. Road turns to shit from all the trucks. Afterwards i was scared. Was the dumbest f**king thing, ill never be doing that again. Torque steer with road that slippery and uneven = instant P-plater VN death.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/8/2016 at 10:01 AM, Birds said:

London down, we've followed, I'm locked in now...

Could this be the end of the streak?

But the streak goes on...da-da-dum da-dum

Pip trading done right

IMG_7718.PNG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depending how much you've invested, you could give short terming a go in the meantime to average down.

But pretty confident we will return to 5 cents plus during the course of pre/post IW2 unless it's a duster which isn't likely.

Tax man is going to bend me over chronic. Though as someone on HC once told me...don't be scared of CGT, it just means that you're winning / won for the year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Leroy Peterson said:

intermediate shaft? wha?

my break even is 4.5c, so will just sit tight till then. tax man is gonna love you.

In some FWDs mostly European, they run a small straight shaft across the back of the engine from the FWD diff so that the CV shafts on both sides have equal length and the same angle

Helps a great deal with torque steer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that was at a dyno day in footscray, I remember they kept on turning the boost up trying to beat my car and it had like 10 runs when the rest had 3 haha. I think I made 355ish and he made 348, it was close. My mate ended up with the most from his charged XR8 (which he is stripping to sell parts off now :() 

Also remember at the same joint in early 2012 when my car was stock at the SAU dyno day and somehow won with 286 lel. How the f**k.

Just found the video LOL (Oh it was TRD-666, not v12 killer)

 

Edited by UNR33L
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Helps a great deal with torque steer

Real drivers just hold onto the steering wheel properly. Mech diff makes a world of difference though.
Pretty sure most east-west mid engined cars run ok without equal driveshaft lengths. Obviously dont steer with those wheels, but its not a deal breaker... Unless 450hp+
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah most people that have heard it said it was fine but it's always had me slightly worried. Oil pressure I can't remember off the top of my head but it has plenty, I run 10w60 You're probably right mate, best get ordering some shims! Guessing Nissan is the best place for them?
    • Just wanna preface this and point out I'm a mechanical fitter by trade but have had very little rebuild/machining experience, but I am keen to learn, hence this project. Bit of a write up here so bear with me, just want to make sure I do this right  I've got an rb30e currently pulled down. Planning on putting a 25 head on it and running it in my s14.  Not chasing huge power so I'm just going to try get away with factory bottom end for now.  Started measuring the crank the other day, realised my budget daytona micrometer set wasn't up to the task (surprise, I know). They only measure to 0.01mm but the Nissan specs are to 0.001mm. Anyway, I started measuring anyway and came away with the mains being inline with the oem spec, as well as the big ends, except for no. 5. I consistently got a measurement of a hair over 49.96mm, where all the others were pretty spot on 49.97mm. The lower spec for grade no.1 is 49.961mm. I'm getting access to some better gear my next days off to double check everything, but in the case that the big end is right on that bottom spec, is it pretty much just a case of straight to the machine shop for machining and oversized bearings? I understand I need to measure the tunnel as well to work out my oil clearance, but it's the different grade bearings in the manual that are confusing me. What is generally the process when one journal would still technically be in spec, but in a different grade?  Thanks for coming to my Ted talk
    • You need to visit Ipswich. Plenty of clapped out R32 and R33s running around here as daily drivers. And when I say clapped out, they're how you'd look at a VN, when it's the year 2010...
    • So I checked this out in the weekend.. and look at this. I remember watching the videos. Finally got to see it in person! BRB. Tissues. Got tonnes of other pics and videos too.      IMG_0171.mov IMG_0113.mov
    • For anyone who might be put off by the slightly wacky wheel offset shown on the box photo above, the production models are not like that. Here's some more pics of the actual product (as well as the interior)
×
×
  • Create New...