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Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0


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1 hour ago, HEKT1K said:

Econobox grocery getter, must be auto

won't see much use so don't want to spend too much, thinking maybe $15k max

I was suitably impressed with the brand new Hyundai Accent my panelbeater lent me for 3 months, which is about 15k new from memory. Comfortable and practical in every way and it wasn't a complete slug with the CVT auto, which is one of the better I've driven. Very different cars to what Hyundai used to be. Not much to look at, but If I had the space one would be in my garage as a cheap daily.

That or a Kia as mentioned above...think they share platforms with the I series Hyundais. A mate just bought a Cerato as a daily and prefers it to the GTI and Skoda he had previously.

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Econobox grocery getter, must be auto

won't see much use so don't want to spend too much, thinking maybe $15k max

 

With the first criteria I would have said to check out a fiesta st, but it's manual only.

 

Until you have driven one you won't understand just how good/fun they are, but don't expect to be winning drag races against 33s or fpvs, the SSS is an unknown though.

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14 hours ago, Count Grantleyish said:

I did 12.6 with dying AFM's, rubbish BC coilovers and tune that makes more black smoke than diesel Golf. 

I still remember that night we went to the drags would of been early 2012 when my car was stock :D

Then we raced on the hwy after straight past po po lel.

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I still remember that night we went to the drags would of been early 2012 when my car was stock [emoji3]
Then we raced on the hwy after straight past po po lel.


It was like mid-late 2011 or something.

That was proper poo moment haha.
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22 hours ago, UNR33L said:

Have any of you fellas actually put a time down the 1/4? 

Greg/Birds/Toby? 

I know Hame did like a 12.6 or something which is still one of the better times I've seen for a street skyline with coilovers and hellaflush fitment 

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me.

So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft.
I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are  and my 60ft was 2.6.

My car only makes 320kw atm :P

If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..."

Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there.

So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now.

2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582.


TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

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So what you're saying is you should buy my FPV then, it does 11.6 @ 126

I'll take your car + cash my way kthx

Why not put a $1500 barra in your 33 with the 3582 you got and be done? 

I did a 12.6 on my old 33 GTR actually at I think 110mph stock ECU/engine with exhaust basically.. never ran it after I got the mighty power FC in 

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44 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me.

So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft.
I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are  and my 60ft was 2.6.

My car only makes 320kw atm :P

If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..."

Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there.

So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now.

2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582.


TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol

Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost

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25 minutes ago, Count Grantleyish said:

And Barra cost $1500 now?

Decent $ I say.

For a turbo one yep. 

N/a one can be had for like $200 

I think you did a 12.something? can't remember. 

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9 minutes ago, Birds said:

It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol

Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost

Its stories like mine that generate the opinions that smart people listen to and benefit from :P

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It's stories like this that make me glad my search for more power was limited to reading a couple of threads asking people what worked well and doing just that lol
Being a revolutionary in turbo setups or in greater life is typically done at great personal cost


Being one of the early 3l crowd. It seemed far easier and cheaper than it actually turned out to be.

Doing it again would keep the 25 and go a 3071 or 3076. Job done, solidly fast car, not a lot of $$.
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For a turbo one yep. 
N/a one can be had for like $200 
I think you did a 12.something? can't remember. 


Wow, cheaper than rb25 these days.

I might have done a 12, it was long time ago.

Gonna take it to drags as soon as I get it back.
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